How To Grow Bonsai Tree

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Superb Modifications Of The Fundamental Styles Of Bonsai Tree Sculpture

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Outside the fundamental styles of bonsai tree sculpture, there are various superb modifications. The artistic personality that every artist brings to the effort allows for an countless diversity of forms.

Group or Forest (Yose) Style Of Bonsai Art

The collection displayed, frequently referred to as the forest, is exactly what the given name implies - many bonsai trees residing in a sole container. Several varieties will achieve the goal, however this technique frequently contains multiples of single variety. Several types inside a lone container would create soil plan and watering supervision, not to bring up atmosphere and sunshine management, very complicated.

Within the yose approach, present more than a few sub-styles denoted by the quantity of trunks in the plate. Sambon-Yose (3 trunks), Gohon-Yose (5), Nanahon-Yose (7) and Kyuhon-Yose (9) are the majority that are familiar and more and more tricky as the amount rises.

In various cases they leap starting from a lone root underground, in which case the trunks are a lot like above-soil limbs. This is called kabudachi technique. The divergence from a typical grouping in this case is the aim of the base present a middle cluster in the heart of the container.

Korabuki (Raft) Style Of Bonsai Art

Naturally, trees are not merely blown by blustery weather and rainwater, however they are frequently totally knocked down. Rains make softer the soil, roots develop close up to the surface, and the soil has little underground holes. Every one of which, work against the tree with the wind speed to weaken the capacity of the tree to stay standing.

However trees are astonishingly flexible and are capable of becoming accustomed to stay alive beneath the a good number difficult circumstances. Still, while growing parallel with the ground, provided at hand is sufficient contact with the ground by the roots, life can be capable of continuing.

Just like what happens with most bonsai styles, the bonsai artist tries to imitate the natural world, even in this acute case. A lot of of the outcomes are as stunning as the full-sized examples fashioned by the environment unaided.

Sub-styles consist of the ikadabuki (straight line), wherein the trunk is completely out of the earth. classically it will rest on the surface, although a few will be able to essentially grow to some extent like a kengai and are a little higher than the soil.

In an additional sub-technique the trunk rests at a slant, partly underground. Herein the bark beneath the soil will be inclined to decompose from dampness and minute top soil organisms.

In a lot of cases the trunk will be permitted to develop numerous twigs that look a great deal similar to individual trunks. These materialize like to a collection or forest style, but all develop from a solitary tree.

The netsunagari (sinuous) method is one of the other out of the ordinary sub-types. Now the roots roam throughout the dirt similar to a lot of underground rivers moreover the trunks are very contorted and twisted.

The forms of bonsai tree are as wide-ranging as the artists who fashion them. Wherever the distinction is placed among one approach and a different approach is frequently a very personality preference. In any case, the natural world provides lots of examples of intermediate cases. Isolating red from orange along the color spectrum is not easy. Moreover, at what stature does high turn out to be standard and fade into short?

Similar to countless things in Japanese society, the amalgamation of perceptible opposites, or equilibrium among opposing influences, is in no way more in attendance than in the plan and implementation of a bonsai tree. It is one of the many long-established arts shared with the definitive in personal expression.

For more on the beautiful styles of bonsai art and the history of bonsai art try visiting http://www.beautiful-bonsai-trees.info, a popular website that provides bonsai tips, advice and resources to include information on a variety of bonsai styles to include the Shakan style, Kengai style and Chokkan style of bonsai art.

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    Essentail Advice On Choosing The Right Bonsai Tree Pot

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    The word "wa", loosely means "harmony in Japanese and is the relationship between nature and man. However, it can also signify a work of art. In the case of Bonsai or Bonsai art this concept is about striking a balance between the type of tree used, the style its pruned or shaped too and the container or pot that the Bonsai tree lives in.

    The Bonsai pot or container is a fundamental aspect of Bonsai art and should be given proper consideration. The material used color and of course the size and shape all need to be researched when marrying a Bonsai tree to a pot or container. There are no real hard and fast rules here, as your decision is likely to come down to your own personal preference. However, it's a good idea to keep with the Bonsai art tradition and ensure your pot has a sense of symmetry and above all will complement your Bonsai tree and thereby is likely to be pleasing to the eye.

    Here a few factors you need to consider when choosing a Bonsai tree pot or container:

    Its important to gauge the correct size your Bonsai pot needs to be to physically hold the weight of the moist Bonsai soil and support the tree. As your Bonsai tree is likely to be in a prominent place the last thing you what is for it to be tipped over due to the Bonsai pot being too light or small. Therefore make sure your Bonsai pot is large enough to easily support itself and the tree, but also small enough to ensure everything is symmetrically balanced.

    Your Bonsai pot also needs to hold enough soil to ensure enough nutrients are provided to the root system as well as plenty of space for further growth.

    Its vitally important that your Bonsai pot has adequate holes in the base for drainage. The last thing you want is for your pot to retain too much water and therefore over time is likely to rot your Bonsai trees root system. A good pointer here is too use a wire mesh grill designed to fit over the drainage hole. This will allow for proper water drainage.

    When it comes to it though experience and your own personal aesthetics will determine the right pot for your Bonsai tree. If you feel quite literally overwhelmed by the prospect of finding your own Bonsai tree pot it may be worth you buying a dedicated one specifically designed for your tree. Just remember the points above and you shouldn't go far wrong...

    For more top tips on choosing a bonsai tree pot why not visit http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ today for essiential help and advice on anything Bonsai. We also review the best Bonsai tree books & products

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    Wednesday, August 29, 2007

    Ever Fancied Growing Your Very Own Bonsai Tree?

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    When it comes to growing your own Bonsai tree there are a few procedures you can follow that will give you every chance of success. Obviously, one of the first things you need to decide upon is what type of tree you would like to grow as a Bonsai?

    Some trees are better suited to life as a Bonsai than others, so its prudent to choose a tree where you can replicate as closely as possible its natural living environment. Typically your Bonsai tree needs to be quite slow growing and have relatively small foliage.

    Once you have decided upon your tree you can either attempt to grow it from seed, or another alternative is to plant a young sapling. Both methods are feasible, but it maybe easier and quicker if you can find an already actively growing sapling to convert.

    Spring is often the best time to plant your seed or sapling as the soil is warmer and your tree should be actively growing as it wakes from being dormant throughout the winter months. In this situation its probably best to temporary plant your Bonsai in the ground, after all, what better place to encourage growth than in its natural habitat?

    If however, you are attempting to grow your Bonsai during a colder season its probably best to pot your tree indoors and artificially try to stimulate it.

    Remember to keep your Bonsai regularly watered. Never let it dry out or become waterlogged. Its best to water your tree a little everyday to keep the soil moist, rather than a quick soaking once a week. Too much watering and you run the risk of rotting your trees root system. Not enough water will cause your tree to drop leaves and starve it of essential nutrients necessary for growth and development.

    By now your Bonsai seed or sapling should be actively growing and developing early branches and foliage. This is a good sign and shows your tree is happy with its environment. The next stage is to think about moving your Bonsai to its permanent home. Before this can happen though you need to make sure you have the right Bonsai pot.

    Bonsai pots come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. However, you need to make sure that your chosen pot complements your Bonsai perfectly. This means the pot shouldn't detract focus from your Bonsai because its too lavish or ornate by design. Instead choose a pot that naturally blends with your Bonsai and is neutral and understated. The Bonsai pot should roughly be the same size wide as the longest branch, and as deep as the trunk is across. Due to the various Bonsai techniques this is only a guideline and shouldn't be the deciding factor in your decision.

    You are almost ready now to transplant your Bonsai to its new home. Before you do however, it's a good idea to check your Bonsais root system, and possibly prune any obvious root offenders. Its important to note that any major pruning to the root ball should be mirrored on top too. This will ensure your Bonsai remains perfectly balanced and that the roots can provide enough nutrients to keep the tree healthy.

    For more top tips on Growing A Bonsai Tree including Bonsai Tree Care and Bonsai Tree Pruning make sure you visit us today

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    The Secrets To Growing A Bonsai Tree Are Finally Revealed!

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    Have you ever thought about growing your own Bonsai tree but changed your mind because you thought it was either too costly, or maybe too difficult? Well that's what I thought anyway. However, when I looked into it I discovered that growing a Bonsai tree is not really different from growing any other tree.

    If you like gardening and are on the lookout for a new and fascinating hobby then the art of Bonsai tree growing may just be what you are looking for. However, before you rush down to the local garden centre there a few helpful pointers that you should be aware of before you embark on this exciting hobby.

    A Bonsai tree meaning "potted plant" is no different to any other type of tree, that is, it's not some sort of special hybrid that is naturally dwarfed in appearance. Therefore to achieve the Bonsai effect careful pruning of branches and roots will result in a dwarf like miniature tree.

    Any tree can therefore become a bonsai tree. However, as you would expect some are better suited than others. When thinking about growing your own Bonsai tree you need to choose one that is generally slow growing and one with small leaves.

    A good example would be a Hawthorn tree and would make an ideal choice for anybody wishing to get involved with the art of Bonsai.

    So, rather than purchasing an already established Bonsai Tree why not try growing your own? It will certainly be a lot cheaper, and it will give you the opportunity to experiment without costing a cent. All you need to start is a young sapling that you think would make a good Bonsai tree. Remember, a tree with small leaves will generally make a better Bonsai. Try to find a sapling that already has a few shoots and therefore is likely to better accept it's new surroundings.

    You now need to replant your sapling into your garden until it's reasonably well established and actively growing. Once you are happy that your sapling has accepted it's new environment it's time to carefully place your Bonsai to be in a Bonsai container or pot where it will spend the rest of it's life.

    Your miniature tree will grow better the closer you can replicate it's natural living environment. Therefore it's advisable, initially anyway, to leave your Bonsai tree outside.

    A Bonsai tree should never be left to dry out. Likewise it should never be waterlogged either. The ideal situation is too ensure the soil is kept moist. This generally means you need to water your Bonsai tree a little every day...

    If you're really serious about growing a Bonsai tree you need to visit growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk for essential help and advice. There you'll discover the art of Bonsai tree care and top tips on pruning a Bonsai tree

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    Tuesday, August 28, 2007

    How To Choose A Shape For Your Future Bonsai Tree

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    The shape or 'style' that you will choose for your bonsai will say as much about the artist(you!) as it does about the plant. First step in choosing the best suited style for your bonsai is to know the main caracteristics of the existing styles; after you know all of these you must know for which style is best suited the plant; you must first evaluate the tree's strengths and weaknesses. The selection of a style is based on a series of compromises that are intended to emphasize a tree's features and minimize its defects.

    The choice of style may change as a tree matures over time. There are several questions that you should answer before starting: Trunk shape - is the trunk thick and upright? Does it undulate in gentle curves? Is it very twisted and crooked? Does it taper from a thick base to a thin tip or is it thin enough to bend to introduce new curves or remove undesireable ones? Cascade styles are frequently developed from trees that offer little interest in curve or taper, but are thin enough to be shaped with wire into cascading curves. Forests can be created from almost any material, so it is a very logical choice for trees that have numerous scars, little trunk taper or defects in the root system. Later, as wounds heal, tops are replaced, taper develops and surface roots mature, the trees can be separated and stand on their own as bonsai. Is the root system well developed? Do roots emerge at all points in a nice radial fashion, or is the root system one sided? Frequently in container stock there is a second root system that emerges just beneath the first as a result of uppotting from liner stock. This second root system might be better formed or more appropriate for the style in question.

    In general, the Formal upright style requires a well developed, radial root system. Trees selected for this style should have excellent roots, or be adaptable to their development. Styles like Cascade, semi cascade, or in particular forest styles are very acceptable of ss-than-perfect rootage. Two trees of the same species and variety with onesided root systems can be grouped together to form a twin trunk that will eventually knit together to form a single bonsai with the best characteristics of both.

    Observations: - Consideration should definitely be given to the species of tree, and a style appropriate to that species.; not all plants are suited for all shaping styles.

    Marcian Bogaciu

    If you want to find more about Bonsai Trees, just click on the link below:

    www.best-web-stuff.com

    Don't wait anymore! You and your Bonsai need it!

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    Important Things To Know About Miniaturizing Your Bonsai Tree

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    When miniaturizing the bonsai tree, it is important that know how to prune your tree. The major parts of the bonsai that you need to prune well are the foliage or the leaf part of the bonsai and the root part of the plant. Pruning the bonsai is really not just a skill but more of a special kind of art.

    It is very important that you as the plant owner should be very careful in the miniaturizing process of your bonsai plant. The leaves of the bonsai are very delicate so the pruning should be done with intricate care. Pruning this top part of the plant is actually the aesthetic part of the miniaturizing process of the bonsai so you really have to be creative when pruning the foliage. Creativity in pruning means you must have a specific shape or form in mind for your bonsai plant and be able to realize it by transforming your plant into the desired shape and presentation. It is also a must that the dead part of the foliage is also removed in order to keep the plant really green and healthy-looking.

    The root part of the plant is also pruned. This process is a must because new root parts must be allowed to grow and the bonsai has limited space for its roots as it is grown on small pots or containers. Otherwise, because of the limited space, the new roots might not be able to grow. Growing new roots are vital as it promotes the better absorption by the bonsai of the nutrients and water present in the soil.

    When miniaturizing the roots and leaves of the bonsai, remember that this affects the plant as a whole as the two parts are definitely connected to each other. If you prune the roots more than what is needed, the amount of nutrients that can be taken in by the plant might be lessened. Hence, this can greatly affect the bonsai's health. Likewise, pruning of the foliage should be just right enough to eliminate whatever excess pressure from the roots that can be caused by the leaves of the plant.

    The outcome of your pruning of the bonsai is dependent mainly on how you want your plant to look in the end. Therefore, it is imperative that you have a firm picture of the plant in its final form and shape. Be careful when already doing the miniaturizing process as whatever part of the roots or branch that you pruned is gone for good. Pruning is a very delicate and time-consuming work. It should not be done in a haphazard way. Perseverance is one quality that you must possess in order to achieve the desired outcome for your bonsai.

    Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com/, a website with resources for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

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    Sunday, August 26, 2007

    Essential Advice On Pruning & Caring For Your Bonsai Tree

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    Many people who embark on Bonsai shy away from pruning or sculpting their miniature tree. Short term this shouldn't cause too many problems. However, as time goes by and your Bonsai continues to grow the need for pruning becomes a necessity in order to maintain the health of the tree.

    The art of Bonsai is to mimic a naturally growing tree but in miniature. This can only be achieved by the careful pruning of both branches and roots, and is something that should be encouraged to any wannabe Bonsai master.

    So if your Bonsai is starting to look a little tired and past its best, it maybe time to whip out those secateurs and give your miniature tree a haircut. Before you do however its important to have an understanding of what it is you are trying to achieve. Its best therefore to have a design or sketch at the ready so you can easily refer too when you are unsure of what to sculpt.

    Make sure also that your secateurs are sharp and designed for the job in hand. An investment into a quality set will ensure good clean cuts, vital for snipping away unwanted foliage without snagging your Bonsai and thereby causing possible disease.

    With design at hand its time to start sculpting. When pruning you should always trim back to new growth. This will ensure that new buds will route the direction the bud is facing, thereby, enabling you to have more control on the way your Bonsai grows.

    With unwanted leaves and foliage a popular Bonsai technique to master is ‘finger pruning'. This method of shaping your tree involves rolling the unwanted growth between thumb and forefinger before a final twist to remove the surplus. It's a good idea to practice this method on something other than your Bonsai first as you can cause substantial damage to the trunk if the motion isn't continuous and precise.

    Now that the top of your Bonsai has been dealt with its a good idea to consider root pruning too. Its generally okay to remove about one third of the root ball every few years. This will ensure your Bonsai tree remains perfectly balanced both above and below soil level. Now is also the perfect time to refresh your Bonsai soil with some new quality replacement. A little bit of fertilizer thrown into the mix can also be beneficial to your miniature tree too.

    Remember to water your Bonsai tree regularly whilst making sure it never dries out or becomes drenched with water. Trying to keep the soil consistently moist by watering daily is likely to be more beneficial in the long run.

    By following the steps above your Bonsai tree should appreciate its new makeover and gradually recover its lost beautiful.

    For more top tips on Bonsai Tree Pruning including Bonsai Tree Care make sure you visit How To Grow A Bonsai Tree today

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    Friday, August 24, 2007

    A Few Usefull Things To Do With Tree Seeds And Bonsai

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    To the contrary belief of certain persons, seeds and seedlings have many ways of being useful to bonsai enthusiast. Ill elaborate on a few of them.

    Seeds are of many uses and the first one them is to have a tree to develop into a bonsai plant. Pretty obvious, no? But other then growing a future bonsai tree, what could you do with tree seeds?

    Another use for seeds is the potential to develop a new cultivar. Every seeds are a different gene pool then its parents. This is why; some say a cultivar can only be reproduce by cuttings. This is true. But from a seed can come an even better cultivar. I like to think of it as the lottery. I usually sow around thirty seeds of the desired species. Average germination rate of tree seeds is 75%. So 75% of 30 seeds is around 22. A month after sowing, I usually get 22 seedlings. From these 22, I will prick out the weakest and nurture the strongest. After a few weeks of growth im usually able to distinguish the fastest grower (which is very interesting) but im also able to find the ones that grow compact with short internodes. I then select the 10 best seedlings and bonsai plant candidate to be moved to their individual pot. I called this method discriminative growing. This leaves me with excellent bonsai stock, which I can then propagate via cuttings.

    A third uses for seeds/seedlings, is to grow many thin seedlings that we will use for a graft later. You could either graft some roots to accentuate your nebari or even graft a branch. We all have looked at a bonsai tree and wished that a bud would break at a very specific point. Well you could do it with a graft from side to side.

    I also have seen some people who will do a root over rock bonsai tree by using many tree seedlings that they wrap around a rock then join the seedlings together over the rock. Roots and seedlings will eventually fuse with the rock, but seedlings will eventually fuse together on top of the rock.

    One other thing that I find seeds useful for is that they can be a source of uncommon species pretty cheaply and easily. If you don't have access to a certain species of tree in your area, you could always buy some seeds of your desired species and grow them. Shipping tree's can be tricky and cost a lot. Seeds are easily ship around the world.

    Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com/, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and Bonsai tree.

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    How To Grow and Care For Your Bonsai Tree

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    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Growing and maintaining a healthy looking bonsai tree can sometimes prove to be a tough task for those who are unaware of the necessary attention,patience and dedication needed in order to successfully grow and nurter a bonsai tree.This is where I would like to talk about and review a very helpful bonsai tree guide I recently bought, which is called "Bonsai Care Secrets".This guide shows people how to grow as well as take effective care of their bonsai trees.

    This easy to follow,step by step guide which is also loaded with more than 50 colour photos, guides you in growing and maintaining a healthy looking bonsai tree.It does not matter If you are a beginner or an experienced gardener who is already aware of bonsai tree needs, this ebook will greatly enhance your knowledge for growing successful bonsai plants. With this ebook you will learn many aspects such as identifying ideal loactions for planting, different growing techniques, disease curing and general training all your bonsai trees.

    The other important topics talked about include "How to identify types of bonsai for indoor or outdoor growing"," Three simple ways to grow bonsai from cuttings or seeds" And various other tips and tricks to pruning and shaping a bonsai tree.This will help you achieve great success in growing your first Bonsai tree! This package also includes three bonus gifts which are "Growing Bonsai for Beginners","Growing Bonsai from Seed" and "Three Reports on Composting, Pest Management and Mulching". This package is an absolute must for anyone interested in growing or maintaining bonsai trees.

    Did you find this Bonsai Tree review helpful? For more information on this Bonsai Secrets Handbook visit my home page at:

    Bonsai Tree Secrets

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    Thursday, August 23, 2007

    Revealed The Truth On How To Plant A Bonsai Tree

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    How to plant a Bonsai tree.

    It's a good idea, especially if you are just entering into the world of Bonsai to attempt to grow your own plant rather than buy an already established one from a specialist or garden centre. The thinking behind this is that you will learn this fascinating hobby in real-time and experiment on your plant as you go along, and without the worry of making costly mistakes. If you were to buy an already matured Bonsai without having the expertise or knowledge to care for it, then you maybe asking for trouble.

    A Bonsai plant is exactly the same as any other plant growing in its natural habitat, with one big exception. The careful pruning or both roots and branches ensures a Bonsai remains in a miniature state.

    With this in mind its time to think about what type of Bonsai plant you would like to grow. Notoriously good trees to consider are Maples, Hawthorns, Pines and possibly Fruit trees. Ideally you are looking for a slow growing plant that has relatively small leaves.

    Now you have decided on your future tree its time to plant the seed or sapling that will hopefully be the start of your Bonsai. Remember most plants; especially trees prefer to live outside, and in an environment closely matching their natural habitat. Therefore, its a good idea to plant your Bonsai in the garden to give it the best chance to grow.

    Ensure the soil is free draining and never let your young Bonsai dry out or become over watered. Ideally you should be watering everyday and just enough that the soil is constantly moist.

    Obviously it will depend on what time of the year you plant your tree. Spring is the best time as the warmer months will cause the seed or sapling to burst into life. During autumn and the winter months your tree is likely to remain dormant, so don't expect too much to happen during this period.

    Hopefully by now your Bonsai plant should be actively growing. If so, its time to think about transferring it into a Bonsai pot, tray or container. Choosing the right type of Bonsai pot is an article in itself, but as general rule, a Bonsai pot should complement your tree without stealing attention away from the Bonsai. Choose a pot neutral in colour and just the right size to easily accommodate the tree. Also, ensure the Bonsai pot has adequate holes in the base to allow for drainage.

    You need to use good potting compost with a mixture of grit or sand to further help drainage. Also, before potting your tree its advisable to check the root system. If there is a long tap root originating from the root ball its probably best to snip it off before placing your Bonsai tree in the pot.

    For more information on Bonsai plant care why not visit us today at http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ for the very best Bonsai technique help and advice.

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    6 Important Tips for Beginner Bonsai Tree Caretakers

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    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Bonsai trees are a wonderful hobby to enjoy for a lifetime. However, when most people start out, most of their bonsai trees fall sick and die within a few weeks. Bonsai trees are extremely sensitive to their conditions and the caretaker needs to learn how to properly take care of these wonderful and attractive plants. Here are a few of the most commonly asked questions about caring for bonsai trees, and their answers.

    Q: What about selecting the proper containers, and should they have drain holes?

    A: All containers have one or more drain holes; otherwise the trees will not be healthy, they will soon look sickly and finally die.

    Q: What proportion between tree and container do you advise?

    A: What is generally considered the ideal or artistic proportion is the tree 80% and the container 20%; or for dwarfer shrubs or low spreading trees, the plant 60% and the container 40%. In general, the smaller containers are better.

    In a shallow oblong or elliptical container, the tree should be planted at a point 70% of the distance from the right or the left end, according to the spread and shape of the branches, so that the bulk of the tree greenery is centered in relation to the container. In a square or round container, the plant is placed in the center, except cascade forms; these are planted toward the edge.

    Q: I need information on pruning, both theory and practice.

    A: Both root pruning and proper pruning of branches are important elements in caring for bonsai. The constant renewal or re-growth of the root system is essential to the proper health of the trunk and branches above ground. The root system will itself remain healthy only if properly pruned. This operation is associated with transplanting, and detailed directions of that can be found for free at http://www.BonsaiTreeGuide.com -- the fundamental rule in root pruning is to keep the root system "happily" within the limited dimensions of the container.

    Q: Suppose I find a tree 3 feet tall at a commercial nursery that has healthy low-growing limbs and other qualities that would make a good bonsai. Shall I buy it?

    A: Yes. But understand that it will need special culturing. When you get home with it (assuming that it was balled and bur-lapped at the nursery), here are the main steps to take:

    1) Pot it in a container large enough not to disturb the root ball. This may be a large commercial clay pot or a small wooden tub. Better yet, make a square or rectangular container, 6 to 8 inches high and just wide enough to accommodate the root ball. Fill in with additional soil around the root ball, and press firmly. Leave an inch at the top of the container to facilitate adequate watering.

    2) A tree 3 feet high is too tall for a good bonsai. Cut off the terminal 1.5 feet (approximately). Make the cut just above a side branch that can then be wired into the terminal position.

    3) After 2 years in the container, with appropriate and continuous pruning and wiring of side branches, as needed, the tree should be transplanted to a container of smaller dimensions, both shallower and smaller in diameter. After a year or two in the smaller container, transplant to a still smaller authentic bonsai pot, and you are on your way!

    Q: Should one deprive the little trees of as much water as possible?

    A: Bonsai should be kept drier than ordinary ornamental plants in pots; but if the object is to dwarf the trees or to keep them dwarfed, it is no use to make them bone-dry. Want of water only makes them stunted or unhealthy.

    If there is such a thing as a fundamental principle in watering bonsai, it is this: water liberally but be sure that the soil drains amply. In most cases, it does not matter how many times a day bonsai are watered if the soil has perfect drainage and does not hold the slightest excess of water.

    This fundamental principle may be modified to suit the individual case, according to the kind of soil obtainable, the climate, the kinds of trees grown, the containers used, and the amount of time one can spare each day for bonsai.

    Q: What do I need to know about winter care?

    A: Winter care differs for hardy and non-hardy or tender plants.

    Hardy plants are those that can live outdoors in the coldest weather without danger of winterkilling. They are not house plants but are real outdoor plants. Hardy species growing in bonsai containers present a special problem if left outdoors in below-freezing winter weather. Soil in the containers will freeze, and the containers will break. Moreover, it is impossible to properly water bonsai growing in firmly frozen soil.

    If a sun porch or cold but light room is available where the night temperature never falls below about 36 degrees F, this would provide a good place for wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai.

    Here is another suggestion for wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai in a freezing climate: keep them in an insulated deep cold-frame. It should be shaded by a lath house. The soil in bonsai pots, with such protection, should never freeze if the night temperatures do not go much below 0 degrees F. The bonsai should be watered as needed, and on warmer non-freezing winter days, it is well to remove the protective covering and give the plants full air. Be sure to replace the covering sash before sunset!

    Many non-hardy or tender species trained as bonsai should be treated as house plants and never left out in the cold.

    Just follow these few tips to help ensure that your bonsai trees stay healthy and attractive for decades to come. However, as with most hobbies and skills, experience will be the ultimate teacher.

    FREE information on how to grow, train and care for Bonsai Trees. Advice, tips and tricks for beginners and advanced growers alike. It's FREE! Click here: http://www.bonsaitreeguide.com/

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    The Secrets To Growing A Bonsai Tree From A Seed

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    The fascinating world of being a Bonsai enthusiast is certainly a worthwhile and enjoyable hobby. Patience, care and a little bit of knowledge are all that's needed in order to grow a Bonsai tree.

    If you are considering venturing into the magical art of Bonsai you will do either one of two things. Either you will purchase an already established Bonsai tree. Or, the temptation to successfully grow your very own Bonsai from a seed will seem too attractive.

    If you are considering growing your own Bonsai from a seed, here are a few pointers:

    As we all know any tree must grow from a seed. You can therefore grow your Bonsai from a seedling, an off-cut or even a pruning from an already established tree. When choosing what type of Bonsai you would like to grow, initially consider a naturally growing small tree with small leaves. If you are successful, you can then move onto larger trees that are generally a little trickier to grow.

    A recommended and artificial method of preparing your Bonsai seed is called ‘cold stratification', and basically is the process of preparing seeds artificially by storing them in a pot or small container somewhere cold like the refrigerator. This is will then closely replicate the Bonsai's natural living environment if left to grow unattended.

    You could of course just plant the seed in your garden, which after all is probably the best place initially for your Bonsai tree to grow. To speed the germination process up consider planting your Bonsai seed in Spring when the seed will naturally break out of dormancy when the soil temperatures start to rise.

    Using a fertilizer is also a good way to encourage your Bonsai seed to burst into life. Exercise caution here, but as a general rule you can fertilize using nitrogen phosphates and potassium once a month during early spring through to the summer.

    Your Bonsai tree seed should be planted to a depth of about half to a quarter of an inch and watered frequently. It's extremely important to water your Bonsai seed correctly. Never let the soil dry out and never let the soil become waterlogged either. This could be disastrous and is likely to rot the fragile roots of your Bonsai is slowly growing.

    Trying to find out how much water your Bonsai seed needs can be quite difficult. Therefore, it may be a good idea to invest in a moisture gauge, or any such device designed to accurately measure the water content of the soil.

    All being well you should have the start of your Bonsai tree sticking its head above the ground level in a short time. However it's important to remember that developing a bonsai from a seed is just the start in this amazing and worthwhile hobby...

    If you're really serious about growing a bonsai tree from a seed why not visit http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ today for essiential help and advice. You'll also discover top tips on pruning a Bonsai tree

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    Monday, August 20, 2007

    Top Tips On Caring For Your Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    When it comes to caring for your Bonsai tree there are a few common pitfalls you should avoid in order to maintain the health of your miniature tree.

    In this article we will discuss the most common problems experienced and ways to keep your Bonsai tree healthy.

    The Leaves On Your Bonsai Tree:

    Depending on whether you Bonsai tree is deciduous or not will determine if it should naturally shred it leaves during autumn and the winter months. Obviously, if your Bonsai tree is an Evergreen then it should have leaves all year round

    If you are concerned take a look at the colour of the leaves. Generally speaking, if they are yellow in appearance and brittle to the touch this signifies a lack of water. If however they are yellow and falling you may find that you have been over watering your Bonsai Tree.

    Watering Your Bonsai Tree:

    Depending on its environment a Bonsai tree should be watered regularly. You should never let your Bonsai tree wither or become dehydrated. Similarly your Bonsai tree should never be saturated with water. Therefore adequate drainage holes at the base of your Bonsai pot or container should be made available so as not to rot or damage the fragile root system. It's a good ideal then to get into the habit of watering your Bonsai tree a little everyday. Generally the soil should be moist, never dry and never saturated.

    Bonsai Tree Pot Or Container.

    Your Bonsai Tree pot or container should be relative to the size of your tree. You don't have to use a dedicated Bonsai tree pot or tray as these can be expensive, but its important to ensure the size is right for your type of tree. It's best to steer clear of any pot or container that are internally glazed or shinny inside. These are renown for not being well suited to a growing a Bonsai tree.

    Pruning Your Bonsai Tree

    Don't be afraid to prune your Bonsai tree when you want to control the way its growing. Pruning is good is what the art of Bonsai is all about. Just make sure that there is plenty of new growth occurring before you sculpt your tree. Any unwanted branches should be pruned using a sharp pair of secateurs and cut back to a bud. Any new branch will then take the direction the bud is facing, thereby enabling you to sculpt and shape your Bonsai tree exactly how you wanted.

    Just one word of warning. The art of Bonsai is to mimic the appearance of a naturally growing tree, but on a miniature scale. So don't be tempted to sculpt your Bonsai tree into some sort of unorthodox shape or pattern. You may just regret doing so...

    Bonsai tree care is fundemental in keeping your tree healthy.

    If you're really serious about looking after your miniature tree why not visit http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ today for essiential help and advice.

    You'll also discover top tips on pruning a Bonsai tree

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    Caring for Bonsai Tree - 5 Simple Steps to Mastery

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Here are 5 simple starter tips to get you on your way and help you with your bonsai tree. Even the most caring person can mean well but make mistakes. It is better to get a bit of knowledge under your belt before undertaking a new challenge such as a bonsai.

    1. Most bonsai are outdoor plants. All too often the mistake is made that because it is a bonsai it should be kept indoors. Only if it is a tropical tree it should be kept indoors. Tropical trees are notoriously more difficult to take care of than native trees. I recommend therefore starting off with outdoor native trees as they are much more easy to take care of.

    2. Bonsai can get stressed. Another main reason that your first bonsai can die is that it can easily get stressed just like humans can. Stress is usually caused by moving it around a lot so that it's confused about how hot it is or humid. Remember that it is totally unnatural for a tree to move around! When you first bring your tree home and place it in it's new spot it might lose a few leaves from the move. Do not worry too much and respond by moving it around some more! This will not help the cause, it needs to get used to it's new spot.

    3. Bonsai need light. This one might seem quite obvious to most people but getting the amount of light is crucial to success. As a general rule leafy trees need to be kept in semi-shade and needle trees need to be kept in full sun. Indoor bonsai can get very hot left next to a window, try not to put them in direct sunlight.

    4. Bonsai need water. Another one where most people will shout "Of course they do!". But again it is something that needs to be done just right. The soil in the bonsai pot should be gritty and free draining so that it is not too wet and causes root rot. At the same time it should not be allowed to dry out too much and make the tree wilt.

    5. Bonsai need food. This is not such an obvious one and something that most people neglect. Because they are kept in pots we need to remember that they do not have any dead plant matter to feed on and the soil that they are in can get drained of nutrients. To solve this there are a number of different ways to feed the tree. I personally use a liquid feed once every 2 weeks to keep them strong and healthy. However there are other methods that you can use and don't have to implement so often.

    If you follow these 5 simple tips I can pretty much guarantee that you have success with your bonsai for years to come. The hardest step is keeping your first one alive long enough to learn more specialized techniques which will come later on. If the worst should happen and it does die, don't fret too much. Some are notoriously harder than others to take care of and even experts find it a struggle to maintain them.

    Adam Nantel is the author of http://bonsaiart.co.uk/ which is a daily blog giving hints and tips about bonsai.

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    Bonsai Tree – Ficus Glomerata Variegata Information

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    I bought the bonsai in northern Bandung in 2004. I drove my own car accompanied by employees. When arrived, I see numerous small and raw bonsai. Some were good, but some were only raw bonsai. Then the owner invited us to see his farm, which had raw bonsai planted in soil and polybags. Some of them were planted from seeds, graftings, and natures.

    In his farm I saw a Kaliandar Variegata whose flowers were red, like timber tree flowers and I wanted to buy it. Unfortunately, the owner didn’t sell because he said it will die if dug in dry season. I was quite confused, since the tree was 2 meter height and had so many saplings. Why didn’t he separate them and planted in pots or polybags to be sold. I think the tree was good, because it had yellow striped leaves that very contrast plus red flowers. I thought it will attract so many people to buy.

    When we were talking, he mentioned about Ficus Glomerata Variegata whose fertile was not good. I was interested to know more because I was interested in collecting rare plants especially that could be created as bonsai. When I saw the plant, it was only planted in polybag using unhulled paddy (paddy plants /rice that are hulled and then separated from the stalks) as media. It was put in the middle of higher trees, so there was possibility watering process could not be completed. Sunshine was also not than one hour, and there were so many branches were not cut in the lower position that made the variegata lost. I think that were the factors.

    After I bought and took it home, I did the repotting: 1 part soil + 2 part fertilizer + 1 part Malang sand (any sand taken from volcanoes). Before the substances mixed in pot, the bottom should be put filter to shut the hole. On the filter put rough sand (2-3 mm), then softer sand (1 mm), and goat manure (mixed with unhulled paddy) with comparison 1:1. Cut all the branches, leaves including the green and variegata from the stalk. After that, pull the tree from its polybag, clean the soil, and cut and the oversized roots. Finally, put the tree in the pot, do watering, and keep in shaded place. Put in a place with 2 hour morning sunshine when the tree grows new buds. After having many variegata leaves, full dry in the sun. When the tree grow green leaves, cut immediately.

    The result after 6 months, the tree became so fertile and good. So I started to shape it with Slanting Style. After 2 years with good nursery, it became 80% qualified bonsai. I kept doing the intensive care for the purpose of joining National Bonsai Competition.

    One day there was a bonsai lover outside Bandung city came to my place to see bonsai. When he saw the Ficus Glomerata Variegata, he was so impressed and eager to buy it. I understood his feeling, because I had ever the same experiences when I wanted to buy good and rare bonsai tree. After he did some very good offer, I sold the tree. Why? Because I had the saplings from prior graftings, so I still could have the same trees. I felt happy because there was a person who appreciated my work from the same hobby.

    And that’s the whole story and experience about how to do repotting and plant bonsai with the substances made especially for the Ficus Glomerata Variegata. I hope my information could give positive input for you, the world bonsai devotees. Thank you and see you in the next blog about Black Pine tree. Please give some input through the blog or email to contaq@bonsaistar.com. Thank you.

    Hello Bonsai devotees, my name is Suhendra, the owner of Bonsai Star Gallery (http://www.bonsaistar.com/). I want to share my knowledge about Ficus Glomerata Variegata (Loa Varigata in Indonesian Language).

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    Friday, August 17, 2007

    The Bonsai Braided Money Plant Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Bonsai trees can be a great hobby and a wonderful way to add interest to your garden or inside your home. They take a minimal of care and the ability to train and prune them can be a great creative outlet. Not all bonsai trees are the same and there are many different types of trees that can be interesting to grow. A favorite for bonsai enthusiasts is the braided money plant tree as it is easy to grow and makes a great indoor plant.

    The braided bonsai money plant tree, also known as Pachira aquatica, is a miniature tree characterized by multiple intertwining trunks. Each tree is actually four to five separate trees with their trunks braided together. Its size varies anywhere from 10-18 inches tall. (Full-grown money plant trees can reach 7 feet tall.) The tree is topped with large, bright green leaves that form a tuft at the tip of each stem.

    The braided bonsai money plant tree is usually given as a gift, as it is reputed to bring good luck. Generally, the more leaves the money tree has, the better! While it is common to find money trees with five to six leaves on each stem, it is quite rare to find one with seven leaves. Like a four-leaf clover, a money plant tree with a seven-leaf stem is considered to bring incredibly good fortune.

    The braided bonsai money plant tree is also a mainstay in feng shui. Feng shui practitioners believe that the braided bonsai creates positive energy for any room that it placed in. According to this belief, you should place your money tree in the “financial” part of your home or office. Each new leaf of the tree will then bring added financial blessing and success.

    The Pachira aquatica is an easy bonsai to grow; it is ideal for indoor cultivation. Unlike other bonsai, it is quite hardy. It can thrive for many years with minimal care. It is tolerant of both low light conditions and dryness. All you will need is a little bit of soil to hold the roots. Other than that, brief exposure to sunlight and weekly watering will be enough to make the plant thrive.

    The amount of water you give your plant is critical and one common mistake that many beginning plant owners make is over watering. This can actually kill your plant! You want to be sure to water so that the soil is moist but you don’t want to put so much in so that there is standing water in the planter.

    If you are a bonsai beginner, the braided bonsai can be ideal for you! (And the added luck couldn’t hurt.) Even if the braided bonsai money plant tree you acquire seems to have damaged leaves, don’t worry. Those leaves will drop off and beautiful leaves will sprout up in their place. Enjoy both your tree and your newfound luck!

    Lee Dobbins writes for http://bonsai.garden-corner.com/ where you can learn more about bonsai plants as well as find out about more types of bonsai trees.

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    How To Properly Winter a Native Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Many people do not realize that most bonsai plants are outdoor plants. To properly cultivate and maintain most bonsai trees they should not be kept inside but should be outside year round.

    There are a group of what are called indoor bonsai trees. These are from warmer climates and are usually non-traditional species such as palm trees. Because they are from a warmer climate they do need to be kept indoors in most locales.

    However if you are keeping traditional native bonsai trees in the US then chances are that tree needs to be outside. Most people do not realize how important it is for these trees to be wintered outside in a natural climate. For your tree to have a healthy and natural growing cycle it is critical for it to have this period of winter dormancy.

    To give your plant this necessary period you will need to winter it someplace outside. The best way to accomplish this is to remove the tree from it’s container and plant it in your yard.

    In most native trees the roots are the part of the tree that is most sensitive to the cold. Most plants will start experiencing root damage at about 23 degrees Fahrenheit. To help avoid root damage you will need to take the plant out of its container and then bury it in the yard or garden.

    If you bury the plant so that the bottom branches are just barely exposed this should help keep the roots below the frost line. You should bury it in a shaded area. During the winter days the sun can cause the plant to lose it’s water and the frozen roots will not be able to replenish it.

    If you do not have a yard to plant the tree in for the winter you can use a large container. A large container about the size of a vegetable crate should be sufficient.

    You bury the plant in the container just like you would in the yard. And set it somewhere outside where will be exposed to natural elements. If you use a container it is very important that you monitor the soil moisture closely and do not allow it to dry out.

    You can also winter your tree in an attic or garage as long as it is not heated and has windows. Be sure to place the plant where it is exposed to the light from the windows. You will still need to water the plant almost daily if you choose this method. If you plant is a conifer you will want to rotate it about once a week to so that all sides of the plant will be exposed to the sunlight.

    You can prepare your tree for it’s winter storage as soon as the last leaves have fallen off. At that time the plant is dormant and ready to be moved.

    In the spring you can remove it from the yard and place it back in a container as soon as you see the first buds appear. If you allow your plant to winter indoors they will bud early. When they bud early the days will still be too short for proper growth and the leaves will have long gaps between them.

    Everything you want to know about Bonsai Trees and Bonsai Plant
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    Thursday, August 16, 2007

    Spider Mites And Your Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    If you notice a fine webbing between your bonsai plant leaves you may have spider mites. Outdoor bonsai such as Juniper are more susceptible to this than indoor bonsai. Spider mites can be seen with the naked eye. Inspect the web to see if you see movement. They will look like very tiny spiders or micro spiders as I like to call them.

    Why they are bad for your bonsai

    Spider mites feed off of your bonsai using their tiny mouth parts to suck out the plant cell contents. You may notice white or yellow areas in your foliage as a result. Leaves may fall off as a result of the damage. Your bonsai may lose its color, have its growth stunted, or die as a result of the damage if there are a significant amount of mites.

    Life Cycle

    Spider mites hatch from eggs laid on the bonsai. They generally hatch into larva within the first 3-7 days after being deposited onto your bonsai.

    Prevention

    Carefully inspect any new bonsai purchases for mites by looking at the tops and bottoms of their leaves. They are about the size of a period on a typewriter and can be introduced from contaminated soil as well.

    Treatment

    Predators

    If you would like to control the situation naturally, introducing predator insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory mites are your best solution.

    Pesticides

    If you go the pesticide route, make sure you get a miticide. Insecticides that aren't specifically miticides don't work very well on spider mites.

    Conclusion

    Spider mites can be detrimental to your bonsai, but if caught early the damage will be minimal.

    Written by David Mello for http://www.mellobonsai.com/ - Premium bonsai trees, supplies, and care information Alternative to chemical pesticides
    For a more natural method you can try this http://www.mellobonsai.com/care/Miticide.aspx that uses household items.

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    How to Nurture the Perfect Bonsai Tree

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    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    You’ve surely seen the beautiful Bonsai tree somewhere in your life, even if only watching Mr. Miagi on the Karate Kid. It’s probably likely that if there’s a Japanese restaurant in your town, then you’ve sent them there. The art and dedication that it takes to plant and do the necessary upkeep with a Bonsai Tree is enormous, and sometimes much too daunting for those with a green thumb.

    Bonsai’s are dwarf-potted plants that have been cultivated for centuries by the Chinese and Japanese. Since the end of World War II this art has taken off as a great hobby and pastime in the United States.

    It not only take’s much patience to properly raise a bonsai, but also a good amount of artistic skill as well. It’s time-consuming, and there is a lot more to it than one might think. You could say that a bonsai is the marriage between plant and container, and nurturer…al forming the bond to create a distinct and lovely picture of nature in miniature form.

    It is true that the bonsai is actually a hardy tree or shrub that is grown outside within a pot; however other tropical woody plants such as dwarf pomegranate can be developed as bonsais too. It’s important to note that only fairly small-leaved species should be used for bonsai trees - otherwise, the leaves will be out of scale with the rest of the plant. Using Ginkgo, Zeikova, and some of the pines and maples can give you outstanding bonsai trees.

    Your best bet, and the most interesting bonsais are created from already runty plants with considerable, narrowing trunks and naturally twisty or gnarled branches. Also using young but otherwise normal plants can be effective as well. You can find such trees in either the wild or in a nursery.

    An important part of a bonsai, bonsai pots, come in an array of designs. They can range from two inches to around twenty-five inches in diameter, and from one to ten inches deep. You can get these in glazed styles, or more popular porous red clay style. Either way, your pot should have a hole for draining.

    The mixture of soil varies, but in any case it should be able to hold moisture and food, while also allowing for good drainage and aeration. Bonsai experts usually will layer the soil, beginning with a quite coarse mixture at the bottom of the bonsai pot, and then working their way up to a finer mixture. Then, the soil is topped off with either small ground-cover plants, moss, or fine pebbles.

    Many people steer clear of the thought of raising a bonsai tree because they have been conditioned to believe that it takes years and years to nurture a bonsai to beauty. This actually is far from the case. In fact a bonsai can be made quite beautiful in only a few hours if you’ve taken care in choosing the right tree, the best pot for you, and giving it a try to prune your tree into your very own creation.

    Vince Paxton writes articles for http://www.insidewoodworking.com/ , a web publication with information about tool storage , woodworking machinery and other ideas. You can have a look at his writings on workbenches over at http://www.insidewoodworking.com/workclam/index.html and various other sources for workbenches information.

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    Wednesday, August 15, 2007

    The Bonsai Braided Money Plant Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Bonsai trees can be a great hobby and a wonderful way to add interest to your garden or inside your home. They take a minimal of care and the ability to train and prune them can be a great creative outlet. Not all bonsai trees are the same and there are many different types of trees that can be interesting to grow. A favorite for bonsai enthusiasts is the braided money plant tree as it is easy to grow and makes a great indoor plant.

    The braided bonsai money plant tree, also known as Pachira aquatica, is a miniature tree characterized by multiple intertwining trunks. Each tree is actually four to five separate trees with their trunks braided together. Its size varies anywhere from 10-18 inches tall. (Full-grown money plant trees can reach 7 feet tall.) The tree is topped with large, bright green leaves that form a tuft at the tip of each stem.

    The braided bonsai money plant tree is usually given as a gift, as it is reputed to bring good luck. Generally, the more leaves the money tree has, the better! While it is common to find money trees with five to six leaves on each stem, it is quite rare to find one with seven leaves. Like a four-leaf clover, a money plant tree with a seven-leaf stem is considered to bring incredibly good fortune.

    The braided bonsai money plant tree is also a mainstay in feng shui. Feng shui practitioners believe that the braided bonsai creates positive energy for any room that it placed in. According to this belief, you should place your money tree in the “financial” part of your home or office. Each new leaf of the tree will then bring added financial blessing and success.

    The Pachira aquatica is an easy bonsai to grow; it is ideal for indoor cultivation. Unlike other bonsai, it is quite hardy. It can thrive for many years with minimal care. It is tolerant of both low light conditions and dryness. All you will need is a little bit of soil to hold the roots. Other than that, brief exposure to sunlight and weekly watering will be enough to make the plant thrive.

    The amount of water you give your plant is critical and one common mistake that many beginning plant owners make is over watering. This can actually kill your plant! You want to be sure to water so that the soil is moist but you don’t want to put so much in so that d may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.

    Bonsai should not be allowed to become waterlogged, as this may lead to root rot. Neither should the soil be allowed to dry too completely before rehydration. Watering techniques vary, with some growers preferring to water with a fine rose on a watering can or hose, while others immerse their trees in a water-filled basin to the height of the container lip.

    Repotting -----------------------

    Bonsai are generally repotted and root-porned around springtime just before they break dormancy. Bonsai are generally repotted every two years while in development, and less often as they become more mature. This prevents them from becoming pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots, allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.

    Wirin -----------------------

    Bonsai wiring is one of the most powerful tools to control the shape of the tree. The best time to wire a tree is in spring or fall when there is not as much foliage and the tree will not be too stiff. (Trees become stiff in winter while dormant because the sap pressure of the trunk and branches is much lower.)

    To wire the tree, wrap the trunk. Then wrap each branch in spirals of bonsai wire so that the branch may be bent. The tree will then train the branch to grow in the desired direction. Another method of wiring involves attaching weights to the branches, causing them to sag and creating the impression of age.

    Generally, wire is left on for one growing season. The tree should not be allowed to outgrow the wire, since this could cause the bark to become bound to the wire, making removal traumatic. When the time comes to remove the wire, it should be cut away in small pieces (rather than winding it off) as this will cause less damage to the foliage.

    The thickness of the wire used should be in proportion to the size of the branch— larger branches will require lower gauge wire. Two pieces of thinner wire paired together can be used in lieu of heavier wire. It is bad form to let any wires cross; this is most readily accomplished by starting from the base of trunk and working up.

    When bending the branches, one should listen and feel for any sign of splitting. When bending a branch near the trunk extra caution should be used, as the branch is generally most brittle near the trunk. It is possible to gradually bend a branch little by little over the course of several months.

    When working with the branches, consideration should be given to the style desired.

    Tools --------------------------

    Special tools are available for the maintenance of bonsai. The most common tool is the concave cutter, a tool designed to prune flush, without leaving a stub. Other tools include branch bending jacks, wire pliers and shears of different proportions for performing detail and rough shaping. Anodized aluminum or copper wire is used to shape branches and hold them until they take a set.

    Fertilization and soil -------------------------

    Opinions about soil mixes and fertilization vary widely among practitioners. Some promote the use of organic fertilizers to augment an essentially inorganic soil mix, while others will use chemical fertilizers freely. Bonsai soils are constructed to optimize drainage [3]. Bonsai soil is primarily a loose, fast-draining mix of components, often a base mixture of coarse sand or gravel, fired clay pellets or expanded shale combined with an organic component such as peat or bark. In Japan, volcanic soils based on clay (akadama, or "red ball" soil, and kanuma, a type of yellow pumice) are preferred.

    Containers ----------------------

    Every bonsai pot is equipped with drainage holes to enable the excess water to drain out. Each hole is typically covered with a plastic screen or mesh to prevent soil from escaping. Containers come in a variety of shapes and colors (glazed or unglazed). The ones with straight sides and sharp corners are generally better suited to formally presented plants, while oval or round containers might be used for plants with informal shapes. Most evergreen bonsai are placed in unglazed pots while decidous trees are planted in glazed pots. It is important that the color of the pot compliments the tree. Bonsai pots are produced all over the world, some are higher quality than others and some are highly collectable such as ancient Chinese or Japanese pots made in highly touted regions with experienced pot makers such as Tokoname, Japan. However, highly collectable pots are not just confined to Asia, European Artists such as Byran Albright and Gordon Duffett produce unique pots which Bonsai artists collect.

    Pre-Bonsai material are often placed in "growing boxes" which are made from scraps of fenceboard or wood slats. These large boxes allow the roots to grow more freely and increase the vigor of the tree. The second stage after using a grow box is to plant the tree in a "training box" this is often smaller and helps to create a smaller dense root mass which can be more easily moved into a final presentation pot.

    Location -------------------------

    Contrary to popular belief, bonsai are not suited for indoor culture, and if kept indoors will most likely die. While certain tropical plants (Ficus, Schefflera, etc.) may flourish indoors, most bonsai are developed from species of shrubs or trees that are adapted to temperate climates (conifers, maples, larch, etc) and require a period of dormancy. Most trees require several hours of direct or slightly filtered sun every day.

    Overwintering -------------------------

    Some trees require protection from the elements in winter and the techniques used will depend on how well the tree is adapted to the climate. During overwintering, temperate species are allowed to enter dormancy but care must be taken with deciduous plants to prevent them from breaking dormancy too early. In-ground cold frames, unheated garages, porches, and the like are commonly used, or by mulching the plant in its container up to the depth of the first branch or burying them with the root system below the frost line.

    Mallsai ----------------------------

    Inexpensive bonsai trees often sold in chain stores and gift shops are derisively referred to as "mallsai" by experienced bonsai growers, and are usually weak or dead trees by the time they are sold. Often these bonsai are mass produced and are rooted in thick clay from a field in China. This clay is very detrimental to the bonsai, as it literally suffocates the roots and promotes root-rot. Very little if any shaping is done on mallsai, and often the foliage is crudely pruned with little finesse to resemble a tree. Due to the conditions under which they are transported and sold, they are often inadequately watered and are kept in poor soil, usually a clump of sphagnum moss or the aforementioned clay with a layer of gravel glued to the top, which leaves them susceptible to both drying and fungal infections. Some "mallsai" can be resuscitated with proper care and immediate repotting, although this is reportedly rare. This top layer of glued-on gravel should be immediately removed once the bonsai is purchased, and the plant should be repotted in a good bonsai soil such as akadama.

    Collecting ------------------------

    Bonsai may be developed from material obtained at the local garden center, or from suitable materials collected from the wild or urban landscape. Some regions have plant material that is known for its suitability in form - for example the California Juniper and Sierra Juniper found in the American West, and Bald Cypress found in the swamps of Louisiana and Florida.

    Collected trees are highly prized and often exhibit the characteristics of age when they are first harvested from nature. Great care must be taken when collecting, as it is very easy to damage the tree's root system (often irreparably) by digging it up. Potential material must be analyzed carefully to determine whether it can be removed safely. Trees with a shallow or partially exposed root system are ideal candidates for extraction. There is a legal aspect to removing trees, so the enthusiast should take all steps necessary to ensure permission from the owner of the land before attempting to harvest. If not, consider the right of the plant to stay where it is undisturbed..

    For more deatils I recomend this guide, is excelent and easy to follow. Click here for the guide. Thanks for reading!

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    How To Properly Winter a Native Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Many people do not realize that most bonsai plants are outdoor plants. To properly cultivate and maintain most bonsai trees they should not be kept inside but should be outside year round.

    There are a group of what are called indoor bonsai trees. These are from warmer climates and are usually non-traditional species such as palm trees. Because they are from a warmer climate they do need to be kept indoors in most locales.

    However if you are keeping traditional native bonsai trees in the US then chances are that tree needs to be outside. Most people do not realize how important it is for these trees to be wintered outside in a natural climate. For your tree to have a healthy and natural growing cycle it is critical for it to have this period of winter dormancy.

    To give your plant this necessary period you will need to winter it someplace outside. The best way to accomplish this is to remove the tree from it’s container and plant it in your yard.

    In most native trees the roots are the part of the tree that is most sensitive to the cold. Most plants will start experiencing root damage at about 23 degrees Fahrenheit. To help avoid root damage you will need to take the plant out of its container and then bury it in the yard or garden.

    If you bury the plant so that the bottom branches are just barely exposed this should help keep the roots below the frost line. You should bury it in a shaded area. During the winter days the sun can cause the plant to lose it’s water and the frozen roots will not be able to replenish it.

    If you do not have a yard to plant the tree in for the winter you can use a large container. A large container about the size of a vegetable crate should be sufficient.

    You bury the plant in the container just like you would in the yard. And set it somewhere outside where will be exposed to natural elements. If you use a container it is very important that you monitor the soil moisture closely and do not allow it to dry out.

    You can also winter your tree in an attic or garage as long as it is not heated and has windows. Be sure to place the plant where it is exposed to the light from the windows. You will still need to water the plant almost daily if you choose this method. If you plant is a conifer you will want to rotate it about once a week to so that all sides of the plant will be exposed to the sunlight.

    You can prepare your tree for it’s winter storage as soon as the last leaves have fallen off. At that time the plant is dormant and ready to be moved.

    In the spring you can remove it from the yard and place it back in a container as soon as you see the first buds appear. If you allow your plant to winter indoors they will bud early. When they bud early the days will still be too short for proper growth and the leaves will have long gaps between them.

    Everything you want to know about Bonsai Trees and Bonsai Plant
    Visit our Bonsai Blog

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    Tuesday, August 14, 2007

    Spider Mites And Your Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    If you notice a fine webbing between your bonsai plant leaves you may have spider mites. Outdoor bonsai such as Juniper are more susceptible to this than indoor bonsai. Spider mites can be seen with the naked eye. Inspect the web to see if you see movement. They will look like very tiny spiders or micro spiders as I like to call them.

    Why they are bad for your bonsai

    Spider mites feed off of your bonsai using their tiny mouth parts to suck out the plant cell contents. You may notice white or yellow areas in your foliage as a result. Leaves may fall off as a result of the damage. Your bonsai may lose its color, have its growth stunted, or die as a result of the damage if there are a significant amount of mites.

    Life Cycle

    Spider mites hatch from eggs laid on the bonsai. They generally hatch into larva within the first 3-7 days after being deposited onto your bonsai.

    Prevention

    Carefully inspect any new bonsai purchases for mites by looking at the tops and bottoms of their leaves. They are about the size of a period on a typewriter and can be introduced from contaminated soil as well.

    Treatment

    Predators

    If you would like to control the situation naturally, introducing predator insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory mites are your best solution.

    Pesticides

    If you go the pesticide route, make sure you get a miticide. Insecticides that aren't specifically miticides don't work very well on spider mites.

    Conclusion

    Spider mites can be detrimental to your bonsai, but if caught early the damage will be minimal.

    Written by David Mello for http://www.mellobonsai.com/ - Premium bonsai trees, supplies, and care information Alternative to chemical pesticides
    For a more natural method you can try this http://www.mellobonsai.com/care/Miticide.aspx that uses household items.

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  • Spider Mites And Your Bonsai Tree
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  • How To Care For Your Bonsai Tree
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    How to Nurture the Perfect Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    You’ve surely seen the beautiful Bonsai tree somewhere in your life, even if only watching Mr. Miagi on the Karate Kid. It’s probably likely that if there’s a Japanese restaurant in your town, then you’ve sent them there. The art and dedication that it takes to plant and do the necessary upkeep with a Bonsai Tree is enormous, and sometimes much too daunting for those with a green thumb.

    Bonsai’s are dwarf-potted plants that have been cultivated for centuries by the Chinese and Japanese. Since the end of World War II this art has taken off as a great hobby and pastime in the United States.

    It not only take’s much patience to properly raise a bonsai, but also a good amount of artistic skill as well. It’s time-consuming, and there is a lot more to it than one might think. You could say that a bonsai is the marriage between plant and container, and nurturer…al forming the bond to create a distinct and lovely picture of nature in miniature form.

    It is true that the bonsai is actually a hardy tree or shrub that is grown outside within a pot; however other tropical woody plants such as dwarf pomegranate can be developed as bonsais too. It’s important to note that only fairly small-leaved species should be used for bonsai trees - otherwise, the leaves will be out of scale with the rest of the plant. Using Ginkgo, Zeikova, and some of the pines and maples can give you outstanding bonsai trees.

    Your best bet, and the most interesting bonsais are created from already runty plants with considerable, narrowing trunks and naturally twisty or gnarled branches. Also using young but otherwise normal plants can be effective as well. You can find such trees in either the wild or in a nursery.

    An important part of a bonsai, bonsai pots, come in an array of designs. They can range from two inches to around twenty-five inches in diameter, and from one to ten inches deep. You can get these in glazed styles, or more popular porous red clay style. Either way, your pot should have a hole for draining.

    The mixture of soil varies, but in any case it should be able to hold moisture and food, while also allowing for good drainage and aeration. Bonsai experts usually will layer the soil, beginning with a quite coarse mixture at the bottom of the bonsai pot, and then working their way up to a finer mixture. Then, the soil is topped off with either small ground-cover plants, moss, or fine pebbles.

    Many people steer clear of the thought of raising a bonsai tree because they have been conditioned to believe that it takes years and years to nurture a bonsai to beauty. This actually is far from the case. In fact a bonsai can be made quite beautiful in only a few hours if you’ve taken care in choosing the right tree, the best pot for you, and giving it a try to prune your tree into your very own creation.

    Vince Paxton writes articles for http://www.insidewoodworking.com/ , a web publication with information about tool storage , woodworking machinery and other ideas. You can have a look at his writings on workbenches over at http://www.insidewoodworking.com/workclam/index.html and various other sources for workbenches information.

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    How To Grow And Maintain A Bonsai Tree

    You Can Instantly Become The Expert Bonsai Gardner

    >>  Click Here To Know HOW You Can Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

    Shaping and dwarfing are accomplished through a few basic but precise techniques. The small size of the tree and the dwarfing of foliage are maintained through a consistent regimen of pruning of both the leaves and the roots. Various methods must be employed, as each species of tree exhibits different budding behavior. Additionally, some pruning must be done seasonally, as most trees require a dormancy period and do not grow roots or leaves at that time; improper pruning can weaken or kill the tree.

    Most species suitable for bonsai can be shaped by wiring. Copper or aluminum wire is wrapped around branches and trunks, holding the branch in place until it eventually lignifies and maintains the desired shape (at which point the wire should be removed). Some species do not lignify strongly, or are already too stiff/brittle to be shaped and are not conducive to wiring, in which case shaping must be accomplished primarily through pruning.

    To simulate age and maturity in a bonsai, deadwood features called "jin" and "shari" can be used to good effect with coniferous bonsai, especially: "jin" are created by removing the bark from an entire branch to create a snag of deadwood, while "shari" involves stripping bark from areas of the trunk, simulating natural scarring by limbs being torn free. Care must be taken when employing these techniques, because these areas are prone to infection, and removal of too much bark will result in losing all growth above that area. Also bark must never be removed in a complete ring around the trunk as it contains the phloem and will cut off all nutrient flow above that ring.

    Watering -------------------------------

    Because of limited space in the confines of a bonsai pot, bonsai care can be quite difficult. The shallow containers limit the expanse of the root system and make proper watering practically an art in itself. While some species can handle periods of relative dryness, others require near-constant moisture. Watering too frequently, or allowing the soil to remain soggy can promote fungal infections and "root rot". Sun, heat and wind exposure can quickly dry a bonsai tree to the point of drought, so the soil moisture should be monitored daily and water given copiously when needed. The soil should not be allowed to become "bone dry" even for brief periods. The foliage of some plants cultivated for bonsai, including the common Juniper, do not display signs of drying and damage until long after the damage is done, and may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.

    Bonsai should not be allowed to become waterlogged, as this may lead to root rot. Neither should the soil be allowed to dry too completely before rehydration. Watering techniques vary, with some growers preferring to water with a fine rose on a watering can or hose, while others immerse their trees in a water-filled basin to the height of the container lip.

    Repotting -----------------------

    Bonsai are generally repotted and root-porned around springtime just before they break dormancy. Bonsai are generally repotted every two years while in development, and less often as they become more mature. This prevents them from becoming pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots, allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.

    Wirin -----------------------

    Bonsai wiring is one of the most powerful tools to control the shape of the tree. The best time to wire a tree is in spring or fall when there is not as much foliage and the tree will not be too stiff. (Trees become stiff in winter while dormant because the sap pressure of the trunk and branches is much lower.)

    To wire the tree, wrap the trunk. Then wrap each branch in spirals of bonsai wire so that the branch may be bent. The tree will then train the branch to grow in the desired direction. Another method of wiring involves attaching weights to the branches, causing them to sag and creating the impression of age.

    Generally, wire is left on for one growing season. The tree should not be allowed to outgrow the wire, since this could cause the bark to become bound to the wire, making removal traumatic. When the time comes to remove the wire, it should be cut away in small pieces (rather than winding it off) as this will cause less damage to the foliage.

    The thickness of the wire used should be in proportion to the size of the branch— larger branches will require lower gauge wire. Two pieces of thinner wire paired together can be used in lieu of heavier wire. It is bad form to let any wires cross; this is most readily accomplished by starting from the base of trunk and working up.

    When bending the branches, one should listen and feel for any sign of splitting. When bending a branch near the trunk extra caution should be used, as the branch is generally most brittle near the trunk. It is possible to gradually bend a branch little by little over the course of several months.

    When working with the branches, consideration should be given to the style desired.

    Tools --------------------------

    Special tools are available for the maintenance of bonsai. The most common tool is the concave cutter, a tool designed to prune flush, without leaving a stub. Other tools include branch bending jacks, wire pliers and shears of different proportions for performing detail and rough shaping. Anodized aluminum or copper wire is used to shape branches and hold them until they take a set.

    Fertilization and soil -------------------------

    Opinions about soil mixes and fertilization vary widely among practitioners. Some promote the use of organic fertilizers to augment an essentially inorganic soil mix, while others will use chemical fertilizers freely. Bonsai soils are constructed to optimize drainage [3]. Bonsai soil is primarily a loose, fast-draining mix of components, often a base mixture of coarse sand or gravel, fired clay pellets or expanded shale combined with an organic component such as peat or bark. In Japan, volcanic soils based on clay (akadama, or "red ball" soil, and kanuma, a type of yellow pumice) are preferred.

    Containers ----------------------

    Every bonsai pot is equipped with drainage holes to enable the excess water to drain out. Each hole is typically covered with a plastic screen or mesh to prevent soil from escaping. Containers come in a variety of shapes and colors (glazed or unglazed). The ones with straight sides and sharp corners are generally better suited to formally presented plants, while oval or round containers might be used for plants with informal shapes. Most evergreen bonsai are placed in unglazed pots while decidous trees are planted in glazed pots. It is important that the color of the pot compliments the tree. Bonsai pots are produced all over the world, some are higher quality than others and some are highly collectable such as ancient Chinese or Japanese pots made in highly touted regions with experienced pot makers such as Tokoname, Japan. However, highly collectable pots are not just confined to Asia, European Artists such as Byran Albright and Gordon Duffett produce unique pots which Bonsai artists collect.

    Pre-Bonsai material are often placed in "growing boxes" which are made from scraps of fenceboard or wood slats. These large boxes allow the roots to grow more freely and increase the vigor of the tree. The second stage after using a grow box is to plant the tree in a "training box" this is often smaller and helps to create a smaller dense root mass which can be more easily moved into a final presentation pot.

    Location -------------------------

    Contrary to popular belief, bonsai are not suited for indoor culture, and if kept indoors will most likely die. While certain tropical plants (Ficus, Schefflera, etc.) may flourish indoors, most bonsai are developed from species of shrubs or trees that are adapted to temperate climates (conifers, maples, larch, etc) and require a period of dormancy. Most trees require several hours of direct or slightly filtered sun every day.

    Overwintering -------------------------

    Some trees require protection from the elements in winter and the techniques used will depend on how well the tree is adapted to the climate. During overwintering, temperate species are allowed to enter dormancy but care must be taken with deciduous plants to prevent them from breaking dormancy too early. In-ground cold frames, unheated garages, porches, and the like are commonly used, or by mulching the plant in its container up to the depth of the first branch or burying them with the root system below the frost line.

    Mallsai ----------------------------

    Inexpensive bonsai trees often sold in chain stores and gift shops are derisively referred to as "mallsai" by experienced bonsai growers, and are usually weak or dead trees by the time they are sold. Often these bonsai are mass produced and are rooted in thick clay from a field in China. This clay is very detrimental to the bonsai, as it literally suffocates the roots and promotes root-rot. Very little if any shaping is done on mallsai, and often the foliage is crudely pruned with little finesse to resemble a tree. Due to the conditions under which they are transported and sold, they are often inadequately watered and are kept in poor soil, usually a clump of sphagnum moss or the aforementioned clay with a layer of gravel glued to the top, which leaves them susceptible to both drying and fungal infections. Some "mallsai" can be resuscitated with proper care and immediate repotting, although this is reportedly rare. This top layer of glued-on gravel should be immediately removed once the bonsai is purchased, and the plant should be repotted in a good bonsai soil such as akadama.

    Collecting ------------------------

    Bonsai may be developed from material obtained at the local garden center, or from suitable materials collected from the wild or urban landscape. Some regions have plant material that is known for its suitability in form - for example the California Juniper and Sierra Juniper found in the American West, and Bald Cypress found in the swamps of Louisiana and Florida.

    Collected trees are highly prized and often exhibit the characteristics of age when they are first harvested from nature. Great care must be taken when collecting, as it is very easy to damage the tree's root system (often irreparably) by digging it up. Potential material must be analyzed carefully to determine whether it can be removed safely. Trees with a shallow or partially exposed root system are ideal candidates for extraction. There is a legal aspect to removing trees, so the enthusiast should take all steps necessary to ensure permission from the owner of the land before attempting to harvest. If not, consider the right of the plant to stay where it is undisturbed..

    For more deatils I recomend this guide, is excelent and easy to follow. Click here for the guide. Thanks for reading!

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