About Bonsai Basic Styling

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Bonsai, as a Japanese art form, is more regulated than it’s Chinese counterpart, the penjing. Bonsai attempts to achieve the ideal tree, while penjing attempts to reproduce nature. This is why perfect styling exists in bonsai if you obey the ‘rules’, while penjing leave you free to your creation. As a result these are the basic styles :

Broom (Hokidachi or Hoki-zukuri)

A very harmonious style, this form has branches that develop at a certain height, forming an upside broom. This styling is mainly achieved through a technique called the “V” cut. The trunk is chopped where you want the branch to start to develop and then a deep V cut is performed on the remaining trunk. This will induce buds to break near the cut. Zelkova serrata are notorious for this styling but maple and other deciduous species can easily be styled that way.

Formal Upright (Chokkan)

A tree styled the “chokkan” way has a straight trunk tapering graciously from bottom to top. The first and biggest branch is often situated at 1/3 of the desired height of the tree and is on the right or the left. The following branch is situated on the opposite side, while the third is in the back creating the perception depth. As we look at the branch structure from bottom to top, the branches are getting thinner, creating a pyramidal shape.

Informal Upright (Moyogi)

This style is very similar to the previously mentionned style as the same rules of design apply, however, the trunk is not straight but rather forms a sinuous shape while remaining tapered. This style is commonly used with conifers.

Slanting (Shakan)

Once again, this style is the same as the formal upright except that the trunk is leaning on one side. Branches are grown uniformly on the trunk like the formal/informal upright styles but the apex is tilted to the opposite side of the trunk giving a visual balanced effect.

Cascade (Kengai)

This styling requires an inclined trunk that is preferably at a 45 degree angle. The major portion of the foliage is below the pot line and sometimes goes beyond the pot itself. It often represents a tree growing on the side of cliff. A deep pot is used for this style.

Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai)

Similar to the Kengai style, this style also has an inclinated trunk. However, the foliage remains at the height of the pot line. In nature, we can see this style near a waterway, the foliage having grown on the side and leaning towards the water. While the cascade style uses a deeper pot, this style uses a medium depth pot.

Windswept (Fukinagashi)

A “windswept” tree represents a tree that has been growing in a certain shape due to natural elements . Often caused by strong wind, the trunk is always inclinated in a certain direction and all branches have grown on the same side.

Literati (Bunjin)

This styling is often represented in Japanese paintings. It is a tree with a tall and sinuous trunk. The foliage only grows near the summit of the tree. This styling is somewhat an exception to the rigorous rules of bonsai because it does not have specific rules. It represents what the bunjin movement is in Japan: the search for liberty.

Group/Forest (Yose-ue)

This styling often represents a forest or a small cluster of trees. It is supposed to be styled in a way that will clearly represent the growing habits of trees in a group. Many techinques can be used to achieve this styling and many perception techniques are used to create the illusion of a forest, or as Naka would say, “having the quality of the invisible beauty of nature”. To respect the Japanese art form, an odd number of trees is prefered for this styling.

Raft (Ikadabuki)

The same rules of the group planting apply to this style. However, all of the trunks emerge from one common trunk. This technique is often achieved with a branch placed verticaly in the soil. The roots form this branch and the upper part of the vertical branch develop secondary branches that will eventually become the trunks.

Multi-trunk Style (Sokan - Sankan)

This multi-trunk style has different possibilities. The first, which is called “Sokan”, consists of two trunks emerging from the same visible roots (nebari). The styling of the upper part of the tree must respect the same rules as the formal / informal upright styles previously described. Another variance consists of the same but with three trunks emerging from the visible roots. This is called “Sankan”. You can also have more than three trunks but to respect Japanese bonsai, it is prefered to have an odd number of trunks.

Roots Over Rock (Ishitsuki)

This styling has the specific charactreristics of having many visible roots growing over a rock and finding their way to the pot/soil.

We hope this as been an informative experience from you.

Patrick from Misho Bonsai seeds

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with resource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

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Growing An Indoor Bonsai

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Indoor bonsai has been described in different ways. Some describe indoor bonsai as a plant grown inside the house, a plant grown in a greenhouse, or a plant grown outdoors but brought indoor during winter. Some experts on the subject even denies the existence of true indoor bonsai as they reason that bonsais, whether grown outdoor or indoor will always follow its genetic composition - that is to have enough source of light in order to survive. Whatever the description is, growing bonsai indoor needs special skills and knowledge.

When growing bonsai indoors, the problem most growers encountered is the provision of adequate amount of light. Indoor bonsai plants must be placed in a well-lighted location like the windows. The nearer the indoor bonsai is from the window, the better is the growth of the plant. When a bonsai is placed at the window, rotating the bonsai is a must. As the bonsai ages, its branches and leaves tend to tilt towards the sunlight. Rotating the pot will enable all the parts of the bonsai to receive the amount of light needed.

In the absence of the natural light, artificial lighting can be employed provided the correct lamp or bulb is used. The common household lamps or bulbs do not emit the right amount of energy in order for the plant to undergo the process of photosynthesis. Without proper lighting, the bonsai plant becomes pale, long and limp. An expert advice on the appropriate lamp to use is needed when planning to employ the artificial lighting method.

Plants from the tropical regions thrive well as indoor bonsais. Some of them are conifers, flower-bearing, fruit-bearing and/or leaved plants from the tropical or subtropical regions. The following are some of the plants that can be grown indoors.

 

• 1. Atlas Cedar
• 2. Australian Brush Cherry
• 3. Bougainvillea
• 4. Boxwood
• 5. Buddhist Pine
• 6. Bunya-bunya
• 7. Calamondin Orange
• 8. Camellia
• 9. Cedar of Lebanon
• 10. Chinese Bird Plum
• 11. Chinese Elm
• 12. Chinese Hibiscus
• 13. Chinese Pepper Tree
• 14. Common Olive
• 15. Dwarf Myrtle
• 16. Dwarf pomegranate
• 17. English/Common Ivy
• 18. Firethorn
• 19. Fukien Tea
• 20. Gardenia
• 21. Heavenly/Sacred bamboo
• 22. Hedge Sageretia
• 23. Himalayan Cedar
• 24. Indian Laurel
• 25. Italian Cypress
• 26. Japanese Cedar
• 27. Japanese/Chinese Privet
• 28. Lady's Eardrops
• 29. Natal Plum
• 30. Norfolk Island Pine
• 31. Orange/Star Jasmine
• 32. Redwood
• 33. Rockspray Cotoneaster
• 34. Rosemary
• 35. Round Kumquat
• 36. Satsuki Azalea
• 37. Thorny Eleagnus
• 38. Tree of a Thousand Stars
• 39. Weeping Fig

 

Fruit-bearing plants developed as indoor bonsais bear fruit when given special care. Fig trees although can be grown as indoor bonsai need more sunlight than what is available indoors. Conifer trees are harder to manage than the other varities. When a grower plans to cultivate fruit-bearing bonsai, special care must be given so that the plant will bear flowers and fruits.

A common misconception about indoor bonsai is that it must be kept inside the house or under the shade starting from the early stage of cultivation until the bonsai reaches its potential growth. Another misconception is that bonsai grown indoors should not be subjected to direct sunlight. Only those who have taken extra effort to find out more about growing bonsai know that bonsai, whether indoor or outdoor must have an excellent source of sunlight, humidity, fertilizer and moisture content. Too much supply of anything can bring damage to the bonsai. So, anyone who plans to grown indoor bonsai must study the specific needs of that particular plant or tree.

Avid full time hobby bonsai grower. As been practicing bonsai and gardening for more then 8 years. Owner of http://www.mishobonsai.com, a website with ressource for Bonsai seeds and tree seeds.

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Soil, Moss, and Other Bonsai Garden Essentials

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In order to have a successful bonsai garden you need to have the best soil possible. It is first important to understand that you should never use garden soil in your bonsai garden. This type of soil is typically heavily ridden with bugs, pests, and even diseases that can really create a huge problem in your bonsai garden. In order to have the fewest problems possible you want to use a prepared soil, which is intended for repotting if possible.

While you need a repotting soil, you can use a basic soil there is no need to search for the most advanced soil you can find. Some plants do better with a simple soil rather than one that is heavily saturated with additives. If you have pines in your bonsai garden then you will need to use a grittier soil because they perform much better this way.

When you are looking for the perfect moss for your bonsai garden you may become frustrated, however it is possible to grow your own moss instead. This is much cheaper, plus your moss will not go through "shock" when it is planted. This helps your bonsai garden be much healthier.

As you progress in your bonsai garden, you will eventually need to pull the plant from the planter and trim the roots. When this is necessary, carefully remove the moss from the top of the plant and set to the side. Once you are finished repotting your plant you can carefully replace the moss. It will generally take a couple of weeks, but with proper watering your moss will begin growing again and be as healthy as before you moved it.

As your bonsai garden grows, you will experience some form of pest infestation at some point. Most of the time it is either aphids or scale insects, this is ok because they are some of the simplest to rid yourself of. However, it is important to check your bonsai garden each day to ensure that the problem is caught quickly and handled as fast as possible. If you wait even as little as a week before beginning treatment you could be allowing a few small bugs to become thousands which will take a lot more time and effort to get rid of.

Instead, closely monitor your garden each day when you are watering. Since you are already watering your plants, it makes the easiest time to do a quick check. If you find any bugs, it is always best to gently remove them. However, if you have a large amount of bugs you may need to seek the help of an insecticide to really keep the bugs at bay and off your beloved garden.

Chris Wight has been developing a green thumb for years and has recently fallen in love with the art of Bonsai. To learn more about Bonsai Gardening, please visit his site: http://www.BonsaiBoyDeals.com

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Bonsai trees are a wonderful hobby to enjoy for a lifetime. However, when most people start out, most of their bonsai trees fall sick and die within a few weeks. Bonsai trees are extremely sensitive to their conditions and the caretaker needs to learn how to properly take care of these wonderful and attractive plants. Here are a few of the most commonly asked questions about caring for bonsai trees, and their answers.

Q: What about selecting the proper containers, and should they have drain holes?

A: All containers have one or more drain holes; otherwise the trees will not be healthy, they will soon look sickly and finally die.

Q: What proportion between tree and container do you advise?

A: What is generally considered the ideal or artistic proportion is the tree 80% and the container 20%; or for dwarfer shrubs or low spreading trees, the plant 60% and the container 40%. In general, the smaller containers are better.

In a shallow oblong or elliptical container, the tree should be planted at a point 70% of the distance from the right or the left end, according to the spread and shape of the branches, so that the bulk of the tree greenery is centered in relation to the container. In a square or round container, the plant is placed in the center, except cascade forms; these are planted toward the edge.

Q: I need information on pruning, both theory and practice.

A: Both root pruning and proper pruning of branches are important elements in caring for bonsai. The constant renewal or re-growth of the root system is essential to the proper health of the trunk and branches above ground. The root system will itself remain healthy only if properly pruned. This operation is associated with transplanting, and detailed directions of that can be found for free at http://www.BonsaiTreeGuide.com -- the fundamental rule in root pruning is to keep the root system "happily" within the limited dimensions of the container.

Q: Suppose I find a tree 3 feet tall at a commercial nursery that has healthy low-growing limbs and other qualities that would make a good bonsai. Shall I buy it?

A: Yes. But understand that it will need special culturing. When you get home with it (assuming that it was balled and bur-lapped at the nursery), here are the main steps to take:

1) Pot it in a container large enough not to disturb the root ball. This may be a large commercial clay pot or a small wooden tub. Better yet, make a square or rectangular container, 6 to 8 inches high and just wide enough to accommodate the root ball. Fill in with additional soil around the root ball, and press firmly. Leave an inch at the top of the container to facilitate adequate watering.

2) A tree 3 feet high is too tall for a good bonsai. Cut off the terminal 1.5 feet (approximately). Make the cut just above a side branch that can then be wired into the terminal position.

3) After 2 years in the container, with appropriate and continuous pruning and wiring of side branches, as needed, the tree should be transplanted to a container of smaller dimensions, both shallower and smaller in diameter. After a year or two in the smaller container, transplant to a still smaller authentic bonsai pot, and you are on your way!

Q: Should one deprive the little trees of as much water as possible?

A: Bonsai should be kept drier than ordinary ornamental plants in pots; but if the object is to dwarf the trees or to keep them dwarfed, it is no use to make them bone-dry. Want of water only makes them stunted or unhealthy.

If there is such a thing as a fundamental principle in watering bonsai, it is this: water liberally but be sure that the soil drains amply. In most cases, it does not matter how many times a day bonsai are watered if the soil has perfect drainage and does not hold the slightest excess of water.

This fundamental principle may be modified to suit the individual case, according to the kind of soil obtainable, the climate, the kinds of trees grown, the containers used, and the amount of time one can spare each day for bonsai.

Q: What do I need to know about winter care?

A: Winter care differs for hardy and non-hardy or tender plants.

Hardy plants are those that can live outdoors in the coldest weather without danger of winterkilling. They are not house plants but are real outdoor plants. Hardy species growing in bonsai containers present a special problem if left outdoors in below-freezing winter weather. Soil in the containers will freeze, and the containers will break. Moreover, it is impossible to properly water bonsai growing in firmly frozen soil.

If a sun porch or cold but light room is available where the night temperature never falls below about 36 degrees F, this would provide a good place for wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai.

Here is another suggestion for wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai in a freezing climate: keep them in an insulated deep cold-frame. It should be shaded by a lath house. The soil in bonsai pots, with such protection, should never freeze if the night temperatures do not go much below 0 degrees F. The bonsai should be watered as needed, and on warmer non-freezing winter days, it is well to remove the protective covering and give the plants full air. Be sure to replace the covering sash before sunset!

Many non-hardy or tender species trained as bonsai should be treated as house plants and never left out in the cold.

Just follow these few tips to help ensure that your bonsai trees stay healthy and attractive for decades to come. However, as with most hobbies and skills, experience will be the ultimate teacher.

FREE information on how to grow, train and care for Bonsai Trees. Advice, tips and tricks for beginners and advanced growers alike. It's FREE! Click here: http://www.bonsaitreeguide.com/

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The Secrets To Growing A Bonsai Tree From A Seed

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The fascinating world of being a Bonsai enthusiast is certainly a worthwhile and enjoyable hobby. Patience, care and a little bit of knowledge are all that's needed in order to grow a Bonsai tree.

If you are considering venturing into the magical art of Bonsai you will do either one of two things. Either you will purchase an already established Bonsai tree. Or, the temptation to successfully grow your very own Bonsai from a seed will seem too attractive.

If you are considering growing your own Bonsai from a seed, here are a few pointers:

As we all know any tree must grow from a seed. You can therefore grow your Bonsai from a seedling, an off-cut or even a pruning from an already established tree. When choosing what type of Bonsai you would like to grow, initially consider a naturally growing small tree with small leaves. If you are successful, you can then move onto larger trees that are generally a little trickier to grow.

A recommended and artificial method of preparing your Bonsai seed is called ‘cold stratification', and basically is the process of preparing seeds artificially by storing them in a pot or small container somewhere cold like the refrigerator. This is will then closely replicate the Bonsai's natural living environment if left to grow unattended.

You could of course just plant the seed in your garden, which after all is probably the best place initially for your Bonsai tree to grow. To speed the germination process up consider planting your Bonsai seed in Spring when the seed will naturally break out of dormancy when the soil temperatures start to rise.

Using a fertilizer is also a good way to encourage your Bonsai seed to burst into life. Exercise caution here, but as a general rule you can fertilize using nitrogen phosphates and potassium once a month during early spring through to the summer.

Your Bonsai tree seed should be planted to a depth of about half to a quarter of an inch and watered frequently. It's extremely important to water your Bonsai seed correctly. Never let the soil dry out and never let the soil become waterlogged either. This could be disastrous and is likely to rot the fragile roots of your Bonsai is slowly growing.

Trying to find out how much water your Bonsai seed needs can be quite difficult. Therefore, it may be a good idea to invest in a moisture gauge, or any such device designed to accurately measure the water content of the soil.

All being well you should have the start of your Bonsai tree sticking its head above the ground level in a short time. However it's important to remember that developing a bonsai from a seed is just the start in this amazing and worthwhile hobby...

If you're really serious about growing a bonsai tree from a seed why not visit http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ today for essiential help and advice. You'll also discover top tips on pruning a Bonsai tree

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There are many myths which are associated with bonsai. This not only confuses budding enthusiasts, but also gives the pastime a bad name. A bonsai is not a genetically dwarfed plant and is not kept small by cruelty in any way. The techniques of Bonsai are no crueler than that of any other horticultural endeavor. In fact, given an adequate supply of water, air, light and nutrients, a properly maintained bonsai should outlive a full size tree of the same species. It is a common belief that bonsai are only a few centimeters tall. This is not entirely true, although bonsai are small in comparison to their huge life-sized brothers; most are over 20 centimeters tall and up to 1 to 1.2 meter in height.

How to develop a Bonsai There are different ways to develop a Bonsai. Bonsai can be developed from seeds or cuttings, from young trees or from naturally occurring stunted trees transplanted into containers. Most bonsai range in height from 5 centimeters to 1 meter. Bonsai are kept small and trained by pruning branches and roots, by periodic repotting, by pinching off new growth, and by wiring the branches and trunk so that they grow into the desired shape.

Bonsai are ordinary trees or plants, not special hybrid dwarfs. Small leafed varieties are most suitable, but essentially any plant can be used, regardless of the size it grows to in the wild. The bonsai may suggest many things, but in all cases must look natural and never show the intervention of human hands, with the exception of Chinese bonsai which in many cases depicts images of dragons and other influential symbols of the culture at the time of origination. Grown in special containers, bonsai are primarily kept outdoors (with the exception of some plants suited, trained and grown indoors), although they are often displayed on special occasions indoors.

The bonsai with its container and soil is physically independent of the earth since its roots are not planted in it, is a separate entity, complete in itself, yet part of nature. A bonsai tree should always be positioned off-center in its container, for not only is asymmetry vital to the visual effect, but the center point is symbolically where heaven and earth meet, and nothing should occupy this place.

Prized possession Given proper care, bonsai can live for hundreds of years, with prized specimens being passed from generation to generation, admired for their age, and revered as a reminder of those who have cared for them over the centuries. Although these bonsai are extremely beautiful - meticulously cared for over the years and containing such a wealth of knowledge, age is not essential. It is more important that the tree produce the artistic effect desired, that it be in proper proportion to the appropriate container, and that it be in good health.

Overall, bonsai are something that are quite personalized and there are no strict rules to abide by if you undertake it merely as a hobby which to gain enjoyment out of. It does not have to be an expensive commitment, but it is a commitment that requires a great amount of time, patience, skill and endurance. Although things may not go to plan, don't give up.

Rob Mellor owns http://www.lost-bonsai-secrets.com/ This website helps people find out more about the bonsai tree. Please visit the site for more information on how to grow bonsai tree

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