History of Bonsai

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First origin

Bonsai first appeared in China over a thousand years ago, where it was the practice of growing single specimen trees in pots because it was considered as an expression of the harmony between heaven and earth, man and nature. These early specimens displayed sparse foliage and rugged, gnarled trunks that often looked like animals, dragons and birds. Through growing a bonsai plant a person experiences a new rhythm of the seasons, and nurtures within him the power of creativity as he shapes and miniaturizes his trees. No doubt, cultivating a bonsai tree requires some care and attention, but as a reward it brings tranquility to the mind, a feeling of being refreshed and, inner peace.

Travel to Japan

Many years later with Japan's adoption of many cultural trademarks of China - bonsai was also taken up. Once bonsai was introduced into Japan, the art was refined to an extent not yet approached in China. The word bonsai also is actually taken from a Japanese word ‘pun-sai’ which means a tree planted in a container without any landscape. But over time, the simple trees were not just confined to the Buddhist monks and their monasteries, but were also introduced to be representative of the aristocracy, a symbol of prestige and honor. For the Japanese, bonsai represented a fusion of strong ancient beliefs with the Eastern philosophies of the harmony between man, the soul and nature. The ‘Japanese elite’ also brought bonsai indoors for display at special times.

Evolution as an art form

Over time, bonsai began to take on different styles. Finally, in the mid-19th century, Japan opened itself up to the rest of the world. Word soon spread from travelers who visited Japan of the miniature trees in ceramic containers which mimicked aged, mature, tall trees in nature. Due to this phenomenal upsurge in the demand for bonsai, the now widely expanding industry and lack of naturally-forming, stunted plants led to the commercial production of bonsai by artists through training young plants to grow to look like bonsai. Several basic styles were adopted, and artists made use of wire, bamboo skewers and growing techniques to do this - allowing the art to evolve even further. The Japanese learnt to capitalize on the interest in this art form very quickly - opening up nurseries dedicated solely to grow, train and then export bonsai trees. Different plants were now being used to cater for worldwide climates and to produce neater foliage and more suitable growth habits

Importance as of today

In Japan today, bonsai are highly regarded as a symbol of their culture and ideals. The New Year is not complete unless the tokonoma - the special niche in every Japanese home used for the display of ornaments and prized possessions - is filled with a blossoming apricot or plum tree. Bonsai is no longer reserved for the upper class, but is a joy shared by executive and factory worker alike. These complex plants are no longer permanently reserved for outdoor display but have become an important part of the life of all by being displayed on specially designed shelves.

Rob Mellor owns http://www.lost-bonsai-secrets.com This website helps people find out more about the bonsai tree. Please visit the site for more information on bonsai care.

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Know How To Care for Your Outdoor Bonsai Trees?

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Know How To Care for Your Outdoor Bonsai Trees?

Bonsai trees fall basically into two categories: indoor or outdoor plants.

Indoor bonsai trees are mainly trees that come from warmer, tropical climate areas. These trees do well indoors.

Outdoor bonsai trees, either deciduous or conifer, originate from cooler areas and thrive as outdoor plants. They do not do well if kept indoors throughout the seasons.

Let's talk about the care of outdoor bonsai trees.

Watering

Your bonsai should only be watered when the soil is dry. The top of the soil can appear dry , but be damp below the surface, The best way to check if the plant needs watering is to insert a finger into the soil for about 1" depth. If he soil is still dry, then water thoroughly, until the water runs out through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, then do not water. The dampness of the tree soil is important to understand, as watering, or lack thererof, is the chief cause of bonsai trees dying.

Fertilization

Like all house plants. bonsai plants require fertilization. Follow the directions on your fertilization mix carefully. Add fertilizer only during the growing season. DO NOT fertilize your outdoor plant during the dormant winter months.

Insect or Fungus Control

Your bonsai should be checked frequently for insect infestation, such as spider mites, or fungus growth. Usually, a simple spraying of the plant with an insecticide or fungicide, is sufficient, followed up again in two weeks to catch any left over eggs that hatched.

Trimming

This is an important feature in order to maintain the miniaturization feature of your bonsai. Cut excess leaf growth of deciduous plants using a pair of sharp shears for cutting back at the branches and trunk, and pinching back the excess growth on evergreen trees

Re potting

This is an important step in keeping your bonsai healthy. It is a relatively easy process and should be done when your plant's roots are pot-bound by the existing pot. Re-pot in a container about 1/3 larger, and use this opportunity to trim back the roots of the plant as well. Generally speaking, this process should be done every 2 or 3 years. The ideal time for this procedure is in the Spring, when the plant is no longer dormant.

Winterizing

When cold winter temperatures are below freezing, plants can freeze and die. When the plants are planted in soil, the ground can act as insulator. But when the plants are grown in pots outdoors, there are some special precautions that need to be taken to protect the plant.

1. One method can be to keep the plant outdoors but cover the roots and the first or second branch level with mulch, which helps the plant from freezing. Place it next to a building or under a roof structure to protect it from the snows or freezing rain.

2. Bring the outdoor plant inside to an area that will not freeze during the winter, an area such as a shed or garage. Leave the plant indoors until all danger of frost is gone. Do not bring the plants outside during a warm spell, as this not good for the plant.

Remember to follow these easy steps and you will enjoy your outdoor bonsai trees for years to come.

Gary Machado is an internet marketer and writes on a variety of topics of interest. Did you find these tips on outdoor bonsai trees useful? You can learn a lot more about bonsai trees by going here: http://www.usfreeads.com/883649-cls.html

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The shape or 'style' that you will choose for your bonsai will say as much about the artist(you!) as it does about the plant. First step in choosing the best suited style for your bonsai is to know the main caracteristics of the existing styles; after you know all of these you must know for which style is best suited the plant; you must first evaluate the tree's strengths and weaknesses. The selection of a style is based on a series of compromises that are intended to emphasize a tree's features and minimize its defects.

The choice of style may change as a tree matures over time. There are several questions that you should answer before starting: Trunk shape - is the trunk thick and upright? Does it undulate in gentle curves? Is it very twisted and crooked? Does it taper from a thick base to a thin tip or is it thin enough to bend to introduce new curves or remove undesireable ones? Cascade styles are frequently developed from trees that offer little interest in curve or taper, but are thin enough to be shaped with wire into cascading curves. Forests can be created from almost any material, so it is a very logical choice for trees that have numerous scars, little trunk taper or defects in the root system. Later, as wounds heal, tops are replaced, taper develops and surface roots mature, the trees can be separated and stand on their own as bonsai. Is the root system well developed? Do roots emerge at all points in a nice radial fashion, or is the root system one sided? Frequently in container stock there is a second root system that emerges just beneath the first as a result of uppotting from liner stock. This second root system might be better formed or more appropriate for the style in question.

In general, the Formal upright style requires a well developed, radial root system. Trees selected for this style should have excellent roots, or be adaptable to their development. Styles like Cascade, semi cascade, or in particular forest styles are very acceptable of ss-than-perfect rootage. Two trees of the same species and variety with onesided root systems can be grouped together to form a twin trunk that will eventually knit together to form a single bonsai with the best characteristics of both.

Observations: - Consideration should definitely be given to the species of tree, and a style appropriate to that species.; not all plants are suited for all shaping styles.

Marcian Bogaciu

If you want to find more about Bonsai Trees, just click on the link below:

www.best-web-stuff.com

Don't wait anymore! You and your Bonsai need it!

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How to plant a Bonsai tree.

It's a good idea, especially if you are just entering into the world of Bonsai to attempt to grow your own plant rather than buy an already established one from a specialist or garden centre. The thinking behind this is that you will learn this fascinating hobby in real-time and experiment on your plant as you go along, and without the worry of making costly mistakes. If you were to buy an already matured Bonsai without having the expertise or knowledge to care for it, then you maybe asking for trouble.

A Bonsai plant is exactly the same as any other plant growing in its natural habitat, with one big exception. The careful pruning or both roots and branches ensures a Bonsai remains in a miniature state.

With this in mind its time to think about what type of Bonsai plant you would like to grow. Notoriously good trees to consider are Maples, Hawthorns, Pines and possibly Fruit trees. Ideally you are looking for a slow growing plant that has relatively small leaves.

Now you have decided on your future tree its time to plant the seed or sapling that will hopefully be the start of your Bonsai. Remember most plants; especially trees prefer to live outside, and in an environment closely matching their natural habitat. Therefore, its a good idea to plant your Bonsai in the garden to give it the best chance to grow.

Ensure the soil is free draining and never let your young Bonsai dry out or become over watered. Ideally you should be watering everyday and just enough that the soil is constantly moist.

Obviously it will depend on what time of the year you plant your tree. Spring is the best time as the warmer months will cause the seed or sapling to burst into life. During autumn and the winter months your tree is likely to remain dormant, so don't expect too much to happen during this period.

Hopefully by now your Bonsai plant should be actively growing. If so, its time to think about transferring it into a Bonsai pot, tray or container. Choosing the right type of Bonsai pot is an article in itself, but as general rule, a Bonsai pot should complement your tree without stealing attention away from the Bonsai. Choose a pot neutral in colour and just the right size to easily accommodate the tree. Also, ensure the Bonsai pot has adequate holes in the base to allow for drainage.

You need to use good potting compost with a mixture of grit or sand to further help drainage. Also, before potting your tree its advisable to check the root system. If there is a long tap root originating from the root ball its probably best to snip it off before placing your Bonsai tree in the pot.

For more information on Bonsai plant care why not visit us today at http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ for the very best Bonsai technique help and advice.

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When it comes to caring for your Bonsai tree there are a few common pitfalls you should avoid in order to maintain the health of your miniature tree.

In this article we will discuss the most common problems experienced and ways to keep your Bonsai tree healthy.

The Leaves On Your Bonsai Tree:

Depending on whether you Bonsai tree is deciduous or not will determine if it should naturally shred it leaves during autumn and the winter months. Obviously, if your Bonsai tree is an Evergreen then it should have leaves all year round

If you are concerned take a look at the colour of the leaves. Generally speaking, if they are yellow in appearance and brittle to the touch this signifies a lack of water. If however they are yellow and falling you may find that you have been over watering your Bonsai Tree.

Watering Your Bonsai Tree:

Depending on its environment a Bonsai tree should be watered regularly. You should never let your Bonsai tree wither or become dehydrated. Similarly your Bonsai tree should never be saturated with water. Therefore adequate drainage holes at the base of your Bonsai pot or container should be made available so as not to rot or damage the fragile root system. It's a good ideal then to get into the habit of watering your Bonsai tree a little everyday. Generally the soil should be moist, never dry and never saturated.

Bonsai Tree Pot Or Container.

Your Bonsai Tree pot or container should be relative to the size of your tree. You don't have to use a dedicated Bonsai tree pot or tray as these can be expensive, but its important to ensure the size is right for your type of tree. It's best to steer clear of any pot or container that are internally glazed or shinny inside. These are renown for not being well suited to a growing a Bonsai tree.

Pruning Your Bonsai Tree

Don't be afraid to prune your Bonsai tree when you want to control the way its growing. Pruning is good is what the art of Bonsai is all about. Just make sure that there is plenty of new growth occurring before you sculpt your tree. Any unwanted branches should be pruned using a sharp pair of secateurs and cut back to a bud. Any new branch will then take the direction the bud is facing, thereby enabling you to sculpt and shape your Bonsai tree exactly how you wanted.

Just one word of warning. The art of Bonsai is to mimic the appearance of a naturally growing tree, but on a miniature scale. So don't be tempted to sculpt your Bonsai tree into some sort of unorthodox shape or pattern. You may just regret doing so...

Bonsai tree care is fundemental in keeping your tree healthy.

If you're really serious about looking after your miniature tree why not visit http://www.growing-a-bonsai-tree.co.uk/ today for essiential help and advice.

You'll also discover top tips on pruning a Bonsai tree

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Bonsai Tree – Ficus Glomerata Variegata Information

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I bought the bonsai in northern Bandung in 2004. I drove my own car accompanied by employees. When arrived, I see numerous small and raw bonsai. Some were good, but some were only raw bonsai. Then the owner invited us to see his farm, which had raw bonsai planted in soil and polybags. Some of them were planted from seeds, graftings, and natures.

In his farm I saw a Kaliandar Variegata whose flowers were red, like timber tree flowers and I wanted to buy it. Unfortunately, the owner didn’t sell because he said it will die if dug in dry season. I was quite confused, since the tree was 2 meter height and had so many saplings. Why didn’t he separate them and planted in pots or polybags to be sold. I think the tree was good, because it had yellow striped leaves that very contrast plus red flowers. I thought it will attract so many people to buy.

When we were talking, he mentioned about Ficus Glomerata Variegata whose fertile was not good. I was interested to know more because I was interested in collecting rare plants especially that could be created as bonsai. When I saw the plant, it was only planted in polybag using unhulled paddy (paddy plants /rice that are hulled and then separated from the stalks) as media. It was put in the middle of higher trees, so there was possibility watering process could not be completed. Sunshine was also not than one hour, and there were so many branches were not cut in the lower position that made the variegata lost. I think that were the factors.

After I bought and took it home, I did the repotting: 1 part soil + 2 part fertilizer + 1 part Malang sand (any sand taken from volcanoes). Before the substances mixed in pot, the bottom should be put filter to shut the hole. On the filter put rough sand (2-3 mm), then softer sand (1 mm), and goat manure (mixed with unhulled paddy) with comparison 1:1. Cut all the branches, leaves including the green and variegata from the stalk. After that, pull the tree from its polybag, clean the soil, and cut and the oversized roots. Finally, put the tree in the pot, do watering, and keep in shaded place. Put in a place with 2 hour morning sunshine when the tree grows new buds. After having many variegata leaves, full dry in the sun. When the tree grow green leaves, cut immediately.

The result after 6 months, the tree became so fertile and good. So I started to shape it with Slanting Style. After 2 years with good nursery, it became 80% qualified bonsai. I kept doing the intensive care for the purpose of joining National Bonsai Competition.

One day there was a bonsai lover outside Bandung city came to my place to see bonsai. When he saw the Ficus Glomerata Variegata, he was so impressed and eager to buy it. I understood his feeling, because I had ever the same experiences when I wanted to buy good and rare bonsai tree. After he did some very good offer, I sold the tree. Why? Because I had the saplings from prior graftings, so I still could have the same trees. I felt happy because there was a person who appreciated my work from the same hobby.

And that’s the whole story and experience about how to do repotting and plant bonsai with the substances made especially for the Ficus Glomerata Variegata. I hope my information could give positive input for you, the world bonsai devotees. Thank you and see you in the next blog about Black Pine tree. Please give some input through the blog or email to contaq@bonsaistar.com. Thank you.

Hello Bonsai devotees, my name is Suhendra, the owner of Bonsai Star Gallery (http://www.bonsaistar.com/). I want to share my knowledge about Ficus Glomerata Variegata (Loa Varigata in Indonesian Language).

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Many people do not realize that most bonsai plants are outdoor plants. To properly cultivate and maintain most bonsai trees they should not be kept inside but should be outside year round.

There are a group of what are called indoor bonsai trees. These are from warmer climates and are usually non-traditional species such as palm trees. Because they are from a warmer climate they do need to be kept indoors in most locales.

However if you are keeping traditional native bonsai trees in the US then chances are that tree needs to be outside. Most people do not realize how important it is for these trees to be wintered outside in a natural climate. For your tree to have a healthy and natural growing cycle it is critical for it to have this period of winter dormancy.

To give your plant this necessary period you will need to winter it someplace outside. The best way to accomplish this is to remove the tree from it’s container and plant it in your yard.

In most native trees the roots are the part of the tree that is most sensitive to the cold. Most plants will start experiencing root damage at about 23 degrees Fahrenheit. To help avoid root damage you will need to take the plant out of its container and then bury it in the yard or garden.

If you bury the plant so that the bottom branches are just barely exposed this should help keep the roots below the frost line. You should bury it in a shaded area. During the winter days the sun can cause the plant to lose it’s water and the frozen roots will not be able to replenish it.

If you do not have a yard to plant the tree in for the winter you can use a large container. A large container about the size of a vegetable crate should be sufficient.

You bury the plant in the container just like you would in the yard. And set it somewhere outside where will be exposed to natural elements. If you use a container it is very important that you monitor the soil moisture closely and do not allow it to dry out.

You can also winter your tree in an attic or garage as long as it is not heated and has windows. Be sure to place the plant where it is exposed to the light from the windows. You will still need to water the plant almost daily if you choose this method. If you plant is a conifer you will want to rotate it about once a week to so that all sides of the plant will be exposed to the sunlight.

You can prepare your tree for it’s winter storage as soon as the last leaves have fallen off. At that time the plant is dormant and ready to be moved.

In the spring you can remove it from the yard and place it back in a container as soon as you see the first buds appear. If you allow your plant to winter indoors they will bud early. When they bud early the days will still be too short for proper growth and the leaves will have long gaps between them.

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The Okinawa Holly Makes An Excellent Tree For Bonsai Based On It's Popularity With Bonsai Lovers

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With its green, serrated leaves, the Okinawa Holly is a beautiful tree and also a good candidate for bonsai. The Okinawa Holly is native to the northern hemisphere. It produces attractive pink flowers in the spring and summer, which are offset beautifully by the toothed, glossy green leaves. It's easy to grow indoors, copes well in semi-shade outdoors, and is very popular with bonsai lovers.

It's important to make sure this plant gets lots of water. This is definitely the case just before the fruit bearing period, otherwise the berries will be damaged. Misting is the best way to water the Okinawa Holly, but this isn't advised in the middle of the day. You should also reduce watering during the winter months.

By careful pruning, you can shape the Okinawa Holly into any shape you like. It has a very tender trunk, so you need to avoid using wiring for shaping. The branches are also quite brittle, and can be damaged by wiring. If you cut new shoots very close to the trunk you'll be able to obtain a good shape. You can also prune the holly's leaves to make them smaller if you need to.

Hollies can generally be shaped and sized in any way you choose, except for the evergreen varieties that don't like being shaped into a broom style. You need to pay attention to growth patterns when you're pruning. Some holly species grow upwards, and others grow horizontally. You should make sure that any pruning or wiring you do complements these tendencies.

It's easy to propagate a holly. If you have a deciduous species of holly, then you can propagate it by any one of three methods - air layering, seeds and cuttings. Evergreen varieties generally do better when propagated from cutting. This is because the seeds need special cold pre-treatment, and may still take up to three years before sprouting. If you take a cutting from a one-year-old plant, it should set roots well and grow easily. In the spring and summer months you can also repot hollies, generally every 1 to 2 years is recommended.

Some of the most common problems with Okinawa Holly include fungus infections, twig gall, as well attacks by pests, leaf spots and caterpillars. So you need to check for these issues regularly and treat them if required.

Quickly and easily learn more about the wonderful world of Bonsai gardening and Bonsai pruning by visiting Beautiful-Bonsai-Trees.info where you will find helpful information on a variety of Bonsai styles to include the Chokkan, Forest, Kengai and Shaken style of Bonsai gardening.

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The art of training the bonsai tree has been enjoyed for ages, and can make for quite the enjoyable and rewarding hobby. In fact, early forms of this practice actually began over a thousand years ago, when the Chinese started growing potted trees of a single specimen, this practice was known as “pun-sai.” The Chinese admired the gnarled and twisted trunks and branches for their fantastic appearances, sometimes resembling dragons and animals, while the Japanese approach was more for the appreciation of the simplicity and harmony in the natural beauty of the tree itself, and how that fit in with Zen Buddhism. The Japanese adopted the art form around the year 1195, and while Buddhist monks mainly practiced it at first, it soon became an activity that people all over Japan would enjoy. From its early stages as tree planting, over the years it has developed into the act of training a tree through meticulous pruning and care.

Today, bonsai is the act of training a miniature tree to look similar to its larger counterparts. Bonsai trees are actually not miniature trees by nature, but stay that way through constant trimming and binding.

Choosing Your Bonsai

Bonsai trees are typically sold in one of two ways: as carefully trained plants or as starter plants. Carefully trained ones are often found in good garden/landscape centers and have had lots of work and already have many branch formations. Because of this, they can be quite expensive. The other option you have is buying starter bonsai trees – those plants that are commonly seen around shopping malls, for this reason these tree are also referred to as “mallsai.” You can train a starter plant, but it will take a lot more work and time to get it to be as lovely as professionally trained bonsai are.

Watering Your Tree

Since bonsai trees are typically grown in pots, like many potted plants, they need to be watered often. This is for the simple fact that water can quickly drain from pots leaving the plants dry. In summer, you’ll want to water just about every day, making sure that your bonsai is moist to the touch at all times – but do not over-water or else the roots will rot. This may be the beginner bonsai enthusiast’s greatest problem – watering the tree too much. In winter, it is advisable to water your bonsai about once every three days.

Fertilizing Bonsai Trees

Feeding your bonsai with the right fertilizer at the right time of year is imperative for keeping it in good health. The best types of fertilizers for bonsai are the pellets that slowly release nutrients into the soil, with these, you can make sure that it’s not all washed away when you water your tree. Soluble powder and liquid fertilizers will work, too, though. The best time to fertilize your bonsai is from early spring to late summer. Look for a fertilizer that has a low nitrogen content to feed to your tree year-round. And in autumn, look for a fertilizer with very little to no nitrogen.

If you keep these tips in mind and give your tree lots of proper care, you’re likely to end up with a beautiful bonsai that you can enjoy for years to come.

Katya Coen provides information on garden supplies and garden tools for GardenSupplyGuide.net - your guide to growing beautiful gardens in your own backyard.

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